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Class _ 
Book.. 



.£&>& 



Gopigltt'N — 



COKRIGHT DEPOSfC 



2 



PRAOTIOAI 



CONFECTIONERY RECIPES 

FOR HOUSEHOLD AND MANUFACTURERS' USE 



COMPRISING FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE MAKING OF ALL 

KINDS OF CANDIES, CREAMS, AND 

ICE CREAMS 



BY 

PROFESSOR DU NIEL 



-' 



% 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE AUTHOR 

1899 



SECOND COPY, 
I699. 




4* 






38731 

Copyright, 1899, 

BY 

K. M. CLEMENS. 



All rights reserved. 



TWOCOPfFS PSCElVED, 




HE MERSHON COMPANY PRESS, 
RAH WAY, N. J. 






PREFACE. 

The author, in publishing this book, has 
had in view the simplifying of all recipes, so 
that any person after carefully reading them 
can reach the same results as are obtained 
by experienced workmen. 

The economical housewife will be repaid 
the outlay in one trial; the cost of the finest 
bonbons and chocolate being reduced to the 
price of sugar. 

To the dealer these recipes will be a boon, 
not only in affording him the opportunity of 
a much larger margin in profit, but also the 
assurance thaj: his goods^arejpure and strictly 
fresh. 

These recipes are the same as Professor 
Da Niel used in candy-making at the World's 
Columbian Exposition. 

Finally, the author wishes to instruct his 
iii 



iv PREFACE. 

readers in an art which is not only interest- 
ing, but remunerative, and to prove to them 
that they can make their own candies at a 
saving of from one hundred to six hundred 
per cent. Such goods as cream bonbons, 
which sell at retail at from forty to fifty 
cents per pound, will cost them but the price 
of sugar and a little labor. 

The author has aimed to avoid technical 
terms and to be accurate, clear, and precise. 
He is practical, and has had fourteen years of 
experience which has taught him that candy- 
making requires neither a gifted mind nor 
complicated machinery, but that it does re- 
quire a formula, and the knack of knowing 
how to use it. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER 

I. 

II. 

III. 

IV. 

V. 

VI. 

VII. 

VIII. 
IX. 

X. 

XI. 

XII. 

XIII. 

XIV. 

XV. 

XVI. 

XVII. 

XVIII. 



PART I. 

PAGE 

Implements, 1 

Necessary Ingredients— Where to Buy 

Them, .5 

Preparation, ...... 7 

Vanilla Taffy and the Correct Mode of 

Pulling, 10 

Plantation Drops, 23 

Golden Nuggets — Molasses Kisses, . 28 
Table Furnace: Its Use and How to Con- 
struct One, 32 

Hardbreak Taffies 34 

Yankee Peanut or New England Peanut 

Brittle, 39 

Pop Corn and Corn Balls, .... 42 

Chips or Sitkas, 45 

Stick Candy, 47 

The Original World's Fair Chewing 

Taffy, 53 

Caramels, 56 

Satin Gloss Goods — Butter Chips — Ribbon, 59 

Lozenge-Making, 62 

Jellies 66 

Marshm allow Paste, 71 

v 



PART II. 



Introductory. 

CHAPTER 

I. Necessities for Home or Small Factory 
Manufacturing 
II. Cream, 

III. Clay Cream, 

IV. Kiss Cream, 
V. Hand Work, 

VI. Starch Work, 

VII. Dipping Creams or Bonbons, 

VIII. Cocoanut Caramels, 

IX. Sundries 

X. Blanching Almonds— Salting Almonds 

XI. Conclusion of Part II., . 



73 

78 

82 

86 

90 

93 

97 

102 

110 

113 

115 



PART III. 



I. Chocolate, 

II. Preparing Chocolate and How to Dip, 

III. Hand Dipping; More Properly Finger Dip 

PING, 

IV. Adulterated Chocolate Coatings, 



117 
120 

127 
129 



PART IV. 

I. Ice Cream, 131 

II. The Use of Deleterious Substances, and 

their Effects, 133 

III. How to Know the Age of Ice Cream, . 136 

IV. Necessary Preparation before Making, . 137 
V. How to Have a Variety from One Freezing, 

and Brick Ice Cream 143 

VI. How to Make Two or Three Kinds of 

Cream at One Freezing, . . . . 148 

VII. Various Recipes 150 

VIII. The Care of a Soda Fountain, . . . 157 

IX. A Passing Word 160 



INTRODUCTION. 

On the subject of Confectionery there are 
thousands of books extant, all claiming 
merit. But it happens that few of the 
authors have any practical knowledge of the 
merit or accuracy of the theories set forth. 
Their information is from other sources than 
their actual experience. In this book the 
recipes of Professor Du Niel — famous at 
the World's Fair for French-Egyptian candy- 
spinning, and as a designer of candy me- 
chanical constructions, such as battleships, 
scenery, etc. — are given. The confections 
made according to these recipes have been 
subjected to the criticism of the public at my 
own recent place of business, and in no 
wholesale or retail transaction have we heard 
a complaint ; on the contrary, agents of other 
houses, as well as the public, have shown 

practical appreciation. 

vii 



vin INTRODUCTION. 

The directions given in this volume are 
precise, and so simple that a child of twelve 
years can execute them, where no extraordi- 
nary physical effort is required, such as lift- 
ing, etc. 

I have furthermore supplemented them 
with ice-cream recipes. 

This book enables you to acquire a facility 
in manufacturing confections which would 
require years by serving an apprenticeship. 

Should you have daughters, the third part 
of this book, which treats of chocolate-coat- 
ing, will so instruct them that, after a few 
trials, they can engage in factory work. 
This will add to their means of gaining a 
livelihood, as chocolate and bonbon dippers 
receive from three to nine dollars a week, 
according to ability. 

This knowledge will be useful also to 
young men and boys, giving them enlarged 
opportunities in securing employment, or 
even eventually enabling them to engage in 
business for themselves. 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY 
RECIPES. 



PART 1. 



CHAPTER I. 



IMPLEMENTS. 



Many may hesitate to undertake the 
manufacture of their own candy, thinking 
that it requires a great outlay in tools and 
implements, thus making the manufacture 
more expensive than the purchase of the 
goods; but if you are as much in earnest to 
learn and as open to conviction as I am 
sincere in teaching you the detailed method 
of making good candies, you will soon alter 
your opinion. 

The necessary implements in candy-mak- 
ing are first : If you do not wish to invest in 



2 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

a copper kettle with side hand lugs, use a 
granite dish pan with a narrow round bottom, 
widening at the top, and holding twelve or 
sixteen quarts, but the bottom must be un- 
chipped. There is a better kind of ware 
called Massillon ware, which is of iron, 
enameled inside. A kettle of this size costs 
seventy-rive cents. A copper candy kettle 
sells by weight. 

Second : A theomometer that will register 
340° heat, costing from $1.50 to $2.00. 

Third : A marble slab. If you do not 
wish to buy this, use the slab of your marble- 
top table, or of your dresser ; it will not injure 
it. In the absence of this, use a large platter. 

Fourth : Four iron bars, ^ inch square, to 
fit on top of marble slab, within an inch of 
the edges. For instance, if your slab is 20 
inches wide by 36 inches long, two bars are 
to be 18 inches long and the other two 34 
inches long. These are to be placed in a 
frame shape to keep the candy you pour out 
on the slab from running over the edge. 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 3 

Fifth : A pair of scissors. 

Of this entire outfit the marble slab may 
come the highest. However, I have seen 
second-baud slabs 30 inches X 44 inches sell 
for two dollars. When about to buy one, 
take a large one, say 30 inches X 50 inches, in 
preference to oue that is 3 feet or 4 feet square. 

I have enumerated the material imple- 
ments, yet there is another essential require- 
ment — cleanliness. 

Absolute accuracy of directions as to 
quantity must be used. Never guess the 
quantity in a recipe ; weigh it out to the 
ounce, and then you can satisfy yourself 
whether it is cheaper to buy or to make. 
The knowledge of the degree of heat in boil- 
ing is always absolutely essential. Hence, 
when you begin the making of any recipe, 
adhere strictly to cleanliness, accuracy of 
directions as to quantity to be used, and the 
degree of boiling. These essentials, faithfully 
complied with, will insure the highest class 
of product for the price of sugar. 



4 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

Caution. — Iii many recipe-books one reads 
of " tbe feather," " the blow," u the smooth," 
" the crack," degree, implying by this that a 
thermometer is not necessary. A ther- 
mometer is as necessary in the precise making 
of candy, whether to a beginner or expert, as 
the hands on a clock dial to indicate the 
minute of time. People not using a ther- 
mometer are guessers, aud after the con- 
fection is made they will discover that the 
quality of their product is inferior, though 
they may be unable to discover the reason. 



CHAPTER II. 

NECESSARY INGREDIENTS WHERE TO BUY 

THEM. 

Sugar. — In all candies made, unless other- 
wise specified, use fine granulated sugar, such 
as can be had at any grocery. 

Glucose. — Glucose, in quantities of 30 lbs. 
or more, buy at a confectioner's and baker's 
supply house. Like sugar, it is manufactured 
by a trust and the price varies. However, 
in quantities of 30 lbs. it usually costs three 
cents. By the barrel it is, around the latter 
part of the month of May, as low as $1.65 a 
hundred pounds. Its quality is graded. 
Crystal H. is the best suited for confec- 
tionery. 

Paraffin, Colors, and Extracts. — These you 
also buy at a confectioner's and baker's supply 
house. Paraffin costs five cents per pound 



6 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

in 10-pound cakes. Coloring matter and 
extracts or essences of different fruit flavors 
are specialties of these establishments. Cau- 
tion is here given never to use aniline colors. 
Use nothing but non-poisonous coloring. 

Pop Corn. — Buy pop corn shelled, by the 
pound ; never on the ear. Buy at a confec- 
tioner's and baker's supply house. Corn, to 
pop well, ought to be of the season before. 



CHAPTER III. 

PREPARATION. 

The things that are enumerated in this 
chapter are necessary every time you make 
any of the recipes in Part I. of this work. 
It would be well to read this chapter re- 
peatedly, even to commit it to memory. 

1. Allow no small children about you 
when boiling sugar, as a splash may happen 
easily and is very dangerous. A candy burn 
is equal to that of molten metal. 

2. Have your marble slab perfectly 
clean — using simply a little soap and warm 
water — after which dry thoroughly. This also 
applies to your bars, kettle, and thermometer. 

3. See that your slab is perfectly level, for 
it gives the best result, especially in the 
making of cream, which will be explained in 
Part II. of this volume. 

7 



8 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

4. Make several paddles about 18 inches 
long, from y 2 inch wood, so that the paddle 
is about 4 inches wide, tapering to \% inch. 

Summary. — Assume you are about to 
make some taffy, as in Chapter IV of this 
Part. After having seen that your marble 
slab, copper kettle, bars, and thermometer 
are spotlessly clean, take an ordinary half 
cup of best lard and place on stove until 
dissolved. When dissolved, take a 6-inch 
square piece of flannel cloth, dip it into the 
dissolved lard, aud cover the slab all over 
with a light coating of this lard. Then take 
one bar after another, holding the flannel 
cloth which was steeped in the lard in one 
hand, and, while supporting the bar with the 
other, draw the flannel cloth down on the 
bar so that it also has a touch of oiling; 
do this to each of the four bars. Place the 
bars together in frame shape on the slab, so 
that they w T ill be an inch from the edge of 
slab all around. The small bars should be 
opposite each other and the large ones 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 9 

opposite each other as close together as possi- 
ble, so that, when yon pour boiling syrup on 
the slab out of the kettle, it will remain in 
the inside of this frame until it is cold enough 
to handle. Every recipe in this Part demands 
that you oil your slab as directed, before 
beginning to boil any sugar. 

Have a tin cover made that will be large 
enough to fit in the top of your kettle; it 
would be better if it were made like a funnel 
with a vent in the center. This lid is always 
put on when you boil any sugar that does not 
require constant stirring. The steam that 
arises from the water keeps the kettle clean 
and prevents the boil from going to sugar. 
After the sugar boils, should you see any dirt 
or scum, take a fine hair strainer, such as is 
used for straining tea or coffee, and strain or 
skim from side to center. 



CHAPTER IV. 

VANILLA TAFFY AND THE CORKECT MODE OF 
PULLING. 

At the Lead of the first paragraph in this 
aud subsequent chapters, you will find the 
formula or ingredients that are required in 
making the goods, and immediately following 
an explanation of the method of making. 



VANILLA TAFFY. 






Water (hot), .... 




3 qts. 


Glucose, .... 




8 lbs. 


Sugar, .... 




5 lbs. 


Paraffin, .... 




4 oz. 


The extract, vanilla, necessary 


' to 


name 


the taffy. 






Boil at 260° in winter; 270° in 


summer. 


or all taffies that require 


pulling y 



must also have a hook, fastened to a door 
frame or wall. It can be made at any black- 

10 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 11 

smith shop, or bought at a confectioner's and 
bakers supply house. There is a kind 
which is portable; the hook can be removed 
and put away when not in use. A simple 
device of a piece of half-inch round wire, 
14 inches long, bent in an S shape, can be 
used by dropping one end in a large screw 
eye that is screwed in the wall. 

Having all things cleaned and oiled, as 
explained in the previous chapter, take your 
kettle and pour in 3 qts. of water; put it on 
the fire and allow it to come to a boil. After 
it begins to boil, remove from fire to the 
floor. See that your fire in the stove is 
strong enough to last twenty minutes before 
having to add fresh fuel. Also bear in mind 
that no coal or coke must ever touch the 
bottom of your kettle, otherwise it will 
scorch. 

Now you have 3 qts. of water in kettle; 
weigh out accurately 8 lbs. of glucose, put 
this into the warm water in the kettle. 
Weigh out 5 lbs. of fine granulated sugar and 



12 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

put this also in the kettle with the warm 
water and glucose, adding 4 oz. of paraffin. 

Now take a paddle made from a shingle 
and stir the entire mixture about until it is 
dissolved, before putting kettle back on the 
fire. Take a clean cloth, heavily soaked with 
water, and wash any sugar that may have 
been splashed on the sides, and after this 
is done set the kettle on the fire again. 
Always stir the mixture about when putting 
kettle back on fire again, making sure that 
none of the sugar or glucose adheres on the 
bottom. Now take out the paddle and put 
your thermometer in, so that it projects 
enough to prevent it dropping into the kettle. 
Cover the kettle over with a lid, either of 
wood or tin, and let it boil in winter to 255° 
or 260°, in summer to 265° or 270°. While 
boiling anything lift the lid on the kettle at 
times, aud when you see that the thermometer 
registers 235°, remove the lid to a place out 
of your way until wanted again. 

At 250 Q take the thermometer in your 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 13 

right hand, and without lifting it from the 
bottom of the kettle, stir gently around at 
the bottom; repeat this several times before it 
reaches the 260° if winter, or 265° if summer. 
When the thermometer is within a few 
degrees of the point required, take a damp 
cloth in each hand and lift the kettle from 
the lire to the floor. Take your thermometer 
in your right hand and raise high enough to 
allow draining. When nearly drained give it 
a sudden little jerk, lift out of kettle, and 
hang on a nail with a can under it, to prevent 
besmirching: the floor. Exercise extreme 
care to avoid getting even a drop on the sides 
of your kettle. 

Again take your damp cloths in each 
hand and pour the contents of your kettle on 
your oiled slab, taking care to keep a steady, 
even pour. After it lies on the slab a 
minute or two take a common table knife — 
which have near at hand — and deftly lift uj3 
one end and throw over to the center. Do 
this also with the other three ends. As 



14 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

gradually it spreads again, repeat the move- 
ment, throwing the ends to the center until it 
remains fairly cold in a lump, so that you can 
handle it in your hands like dough. 

I would advise people having tender skin 
to buy buckskin gloves and put them on 
while pulling the taffy, as otherwise the 
hands will blister and peel, but do not use 
warm lined buckskin. By using these gloves 
you need no cloths to lift your kettle from 
the fire. 

Pulling the Taffy. — Put this brown mass, 
which is fairly cold by this time, on your 
hook. As it is warm it will begin to run 
down; when it is down about a foot throw 
this end, which you take in your right hand, 
over the hook again, crossing over your left 
hand, — which you use to support it, — and 
describe a complete circle in doing so, bring- 
ing the end you have in your right hand 
down to the place where your left hand is 
holding the mass to keep it from falling to the 
floor. Do this as swiftly as you can until the 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 15 

mass cools a little, so that you can pull it out 
a little longer each time. Gradually you will 
be able to pull it or let it run clown for 
several yards; but this will take perhaps a 
month's practice. Then you can pull it away 
from the hook ten or twelve feet, and throw 
it on the hook again, whacking the two 
strings together like the crack of a torpedo 
to the wonder of lookers-on. Flavor your 
taffy while pulling, putting on a few drops at 
a time of the flavor or extract which names 
the taffy, repeating until you think the quan- 
tity sufficient by the odor it emits. 

Take from the hook and put on an ordi- 
nary table, which is perfectly dry and has 
been dusted with a little flour or corn starch 
to prevent sticking. Pull from one end until 
you have a narrow strip about 3 inches wide 
or less ; cut this into 9-inch pieces and lay 
out of reach. Take the end from which you 
cut the strip and pull out again until of a 
uniform width and cut into 9-inch pieces 
again. Continue doing this until the 



16 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

whole you have pulled is run off in this 
fashion. 

Some prefer to make a large circular cake ; 
others long strips placed close together. Do 
as you think pleases your fancy, but these 
9-inch pieces, after allowing them to get 
cold, placed alternately crosswise on each 
other, two at a time, stack high and make 
a larger display. 

The system of taffy-pulling of any grade — 
French chewing or common taffies or stick 
candies — is the same ; it will take some time 
to reach perfection. After trying, you may 
notice a heavy chunk of taffy in your right 
hand like a knob; this is caused by your 
pulling too hard and taking too firm a hold. 
To avoid this, you must let your hand glide 
with the mass. When throwing on the hook 
again be careful not to pull the clumsy end 
you held in your right hand over the hook 
too far ; pull this end about a foot over the 
hook, place in the center of loop that is now 
formed in describing the circle, and twist it 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 1? 

just as you would do if you were to wring 
a cloth you had on a hook, stretching it at 
the same time and then throwing it on the 
hook again. 

This is a most accurate explanation of 
pulling taffy and will not be repeated in any 
other formulas ; reference only being made 
to the foregoing description. 

Note. — This taffy retails for fifteen cents 
per lb. If you buy sugar and glucose by 
the barrel the cost will not exceed four cents 
per lb. It is not necessary that you make 
the whole amount of this or any other recipe. 
Only observe the correct ratio ; thus, for 
instance, the half would be a little less water 
than 3 qts. ; 4 lbs. glucose ; 2£ lbs. sugar ; 
2 oz. paraffin. Or, on the other hand, if you 
wanted to make half as much again, you 
would not need to add any more water, 3 qts. 
being sufficient; and 12 lbs. glucose, 7| lbs. 
sugar, 6 oz. paraffin ; otherwise the result 
will not be satisfactory. 

You will have observed a variation of 10? 



18 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

for summer and winter boiling; if you can 
dispose of the lot of taffy in a clay use the 
lowest degree, and it will not be so brittle. 
Otherwise use the highest degree given for 
the season. 

STRAWBERRY TAFFY. 

Water, 3 qts. 

Glucose, 8 lbs. 

Sugar, 5 lbs. 

Paraffin, ...... 4 oz. 

Red coloring extract of strawberry. 

Boil at 265° in summer; 260° in winter. 

Strawberry taffy is made as the preceding 
vanilla taffy, and, like all other goods in this 
Part, requires the same details in mode of 
making, viz., everything spotlessly clean, 
then oiling slab and bars, washing kettle 
down after the mixture is in, covering kettle 
while the sugar, etc., boils, until the ther- 
mometer shows a heat of 235°. After you 
have poured the contents of your kettle — 
when it has reached the required degree — on 
your oiled marble slab, turn the ends over 
with a knife as directed in the general direc- 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 19 

tioiis in the preceding chapter. Before put- 
ting on hook add 6 drops of red coloring on 
the mass, and turn over so that it remains in 
the brown mass and does not stain your slab. 
Finish on the hook as for vanilla taffy. If 
not bright enough in color add a few drops 
more of coloring, while pulling, in the same 
manner as you add the extract to flavor. 

Use brilliant rose coloring, which you can 
get at a supply house in half-pint bottles ; it 
is a little dearer than some other colorings, 
but is suitable for anything you want to 
make in candy, ice cream, or pop corn, a 
few drops being sufficient. 

CHOCOLATE TAFFY. 

Water, 3 qts. 

Glucose, 8 lbs. 

Sugar, 5 lbs. 

One pound of chocolate grated fine. 
Boil in summer 265° ; winter 260°. 

This is made the same as vanilla or straw- 
berry, only you have at hand 1 lb. of choco- 
late, previously grated, and while the mass 



20 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

lies on the slab throw some chocolate on 
before turning over, each time the ends 
toward the center. Pull on hook and finish 
as directed in vanilla recipe. Never use lamp- 
black with chocolate to darken ; rather pull 
the taffy less if you like more of a dark color. 
Here you must note never to put chocolate 
in the kettle and leave on fire, unless you 
stir constantly as is done in caramel or 
chewing taffies ; otherwise it will burn. 

MOLASSES TAFFY. 

Water, 3 qts. 

Dark molasses, .... 1 pt. 

Glucose, 8 lbs. 

Sugar, 5 lbs. 

Boil in summer at 265°, in winter at 260°. 

Molasses taffy is made similar to the pre- 
ceding by using 3 qts. of water, etc., but with 
this you add 1 qt. dark molasses, stirring 
until all ingredients are dissolved. Place 
your thermometer in after washing down the 
inside and put on the cover; boil and finish 
as explained in the foregoing recipes. 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 21 

Use the cheap black molasses. 

Having accurately described the mode of 
procedure in cooking taffies it is unnecessary 
to repeat each time, as this mode covers every 
manner of making unless otherwise men- 
tioned. I must repeat the particulars, as we 
are about gradually to explain more diffi- 
cult recipes. 

1. Have everything at hand that is needed 
in the making of a recipe. This prevents ex- 
citement and unnecessary anxiety ; be sure 
you are right, then proceed. This is best 
done by having your book at hand, reading 
what is required. I will assure all readers 
who do this that with three months' practice 
they can apply at any factory for work with 
the best results. 

2. Allow no small children about you to 
distract your attention or endanger their 
safety. 

3. Be sure to wash down the sides of your 
kettle after putting in the ingredients called 
for in the recipe, before placing kettle on the 



22 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

fire, as well as to stir a few minutes imme- 
diately after the kettle is on the fire. 

4. In taking out the thermometer or pad- 
dle always bring it to the center and drain, 
and with a sudden jerk lift over the edge 
of kettle so that no drops fall on the sides. 

5. When pouring anything out of your 
kettle, pour steadily and evenly. Do not al- 
low the hot syrup to wave or pour in waves. 

6. Oiling of slab is always essential, except 
in cases which will be explained in Part II. 
of this volume. 

In conclusion, the following taffies are 
made the same as vanilla, strawberry, and 
chocolate, using the same proportions of 
glucose, sugar, paraffin, and water, viz.: pep- 
permint, lemon, orange, pineapple, raspberry, 
etc, Color the latter a delicate pink; use rasp- 
berry extract for flavoring. For the others 
use the oil of peppermint, lemon, etc. You 
can obtain the oils at any drug store ; five 
cents' worth will last you quite a time, as a 
few drops at a time are sufficient. 



CHAPTER V. 



PLANTATION DROPS. 



Water, 


. 




3 qts 


Honey, 


. 




ipt 


Glucose, 


. 




8 lbs 


Sugar, 


. 




5 lbs. 


Paraffin, 


. 




4 oz 


Cream, 


. 




1 pt 


Oleo, 






ilb 


Flavor 


with vanilla and wi 


•ap. 




Boil at 


255°. 







This is made the same as vanilla taffy. 
Have your slab cleaned, oiled, and all things 
necessary at hand, and a good fire. Let 3 
qts. of water come to a boil in your kettle and 
take from the fire. Add honey \ pt., glucose 8 
lbs., granulated sugar 5 lbs., paraffin 4 oz., to 
the hot water in the kettle. With clean 
paddle stir until all is dissolved. .Wash the 
sides around with a wet cloth, put on the fire, 
stirring a little to make sure that the glucose 

23 



24 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

and sugar are all dissolved. Put in your 
thermometer, cover with the lid, and let boil 
until it reaches 235°, which you will know 
by occasionally lifting the lid and looking at 
the thermometer. This will take about fif- 
teen minutes with a brisk fire. In the mean- 
time place a chair near by the stove, take 
your paddle, which you have taken out when 
you put in your thermometer, and wash 
clean, drying well, and lay on the chair ; put 
on the chair also 1 pint of half cream, | pint 
of milk, and \ lb., of best oleomargarine — as 
oleo prevents goods from becoming rancid 
in time. 

Goods made after this recipe will be good- 
tasting two or more mouths. 

At 235° lift the lid from the kettle and 
put out of your way, and let contents boil to 
250°. Then take the paddle in your right 
hand, not forgetting to have buckskin gloves 
on, and shirt sleeves down at your wrists, 
buttoned, for fear of a splash, and begin to 
stir at the center of the kettle. Take the one 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 25 

pint of half cream and milk, or all cream, in 
your left hand and pour it slowly in the cen- 
ter, stirring briskly with the paddle in your 
right until the pint has all been poured in, 
beino; careful not to strike the thermometer 
when stirrino*. It would be better to have 
some grown person about, when making 
goods of this nature, and with paddle in your 
right and thermometer in your left hand, 
have him pour in the cream or milk. 

In candy-making everything must be cer- 
tain and right, otherwise your time and ma- 
terial will be wasted, and the goods you make 
a failure ; therefore, if possible, have some- 
one about and explain to him beforehand 
what you expect him to do. Now let us go 
back. You have someone to assist you. 
Take thermometer in left hand and paddle 
in right. After your assistant pours the 
cream or milk in, your thermometer will 
show a fall of 7°. Allow the mixture to come 
up to 255°, stirring briskly from right to left, 
and left to right, or in a circle, to prevent 



26 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

from burning at the bottom. Never cease 
stirring for a minute after putting cream or 
gelatine in your kettle on the fire. Likewise 
stir in such a manner that you get over the 
whole of the bottom, stir back and forward, 
east and west, north and south. Now the 
thermometer has reached 255° ; let your 
assistant divide the oleo in three or four 
parts and throw them in. After boiling a 
little longer, or 256°, let your right and left 
hands respectively let go the thermometer 
and paddle, not so that they will fall into the 
batch, but so that they rest against the rim. 
Take hold of the handles of the kettle and 
lift from fire to the floor, drain thermometer 
in the center and hang up, drain paddle in 
like manner and lay aside ; pour the batch on 
the oiled slab and proceed as follows : 

Turn edge after edge to the center; when 
it spreads again and is fairly stiff turn them 
to the center again, and when cold enough to 
handle put on hook and pull like vanilla taffy. 
Flavor with vanilla, and when of a cream 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 21 

white take from hook and place on a table 
previously dusted with corn starch or flour, 
to prevent from sticking to table. Shape 
this mass like a square loaf of bread. Pull 
out one side like the neck of a wine bottle ; 
keep pulling this neck with your right hand 
and occasionally roll the other part so as to 
keep it in the shape of a bottle. When the 
end resembling the neck has been pulled out 
about three feet or so, to the thickness of a half 
inch, cut that portion off near the body of 
the mass. Let some other person cut this 
into inch and a half pieces with a pair of 
scissors, while you proceed to make a new 
neck and draw it out a^ain as before. After- 
wards wrap in wax paper. 

Plantation drops of this purity sell for 
thirty cents per lb. 

They may also be called milk kisses, chew- 
ing kisses, log cabin kisses, etc. 

Note. — Adding more cream and paraffin, 
say 3 pts. of cream and 6 oz. paraffin, makes 
them last longer in eating. 



CHAPTER VI. 



GOLDEN NUGGETS — MOLASSES KISSES. 



Water, 


3 qts. 


Molasses, 


1 qt. 


Glucose, 


3 lbs. 


Sugar, 


7 lbs. 


Paraffin, 


4 oz. 


Cream, 


1 pt. 


Oleo, 


i lb. 



4 oz. of baking soda in half-glass of milk. 
Boil at 275°. 

Remember to have everything at hand. 
Read your recipe first and learn what is 
required and then get to work. To 3 
qts. of water that has come to a boil add 
the exact weight — never an ounce more or 
less — 1 qt. of dark molasses, 3 lbs. of glucose, 
7 lbs. sugar, 4 oz. paraffin, and proceed ex- 
actly as in preceding recipe. In the mean- 
time, until it reaches the 235° of heat, busy 
yourself with placing your chair near at hand 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 29 

with a glass of cream and }i lb. of oleo. 
In another glass put 4 oz. of baking soda, 
dissolved in about 2 oz. of sweet milk, and 
place this glass on your oiled marble slab. 
Now exercise great care ; put the 4 oz. baking 
soda, with 2 oz. milk out of your reach, for 
should you make a mistake at this point and 
use it in place of cream, you might set fire to 
the place. By this you will understand never 
to put baking soda in anything while your 
kettle is on the fire. The use of baking soda 
is to puff and lighten, as well as brighten, 
candies. It is harmless when properly used, 
or when used by a person of experience. 
Now remove the lid from your kettle when 
the thermometer reaches 235°, and put in a 
place where it can be found again when 
wanted. 

Having made sure that your paddle is 
thoroughly clean and dry, stand ready, with 
gloves on and sleeves fastened at the wrists, to 
proceed when the thermometer registers 260°. 
Then take the thermometer in the left hand 



30 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

and paddle in the right, Have your assistant 
pour the cream in the center of kettle gradu- 
ally, while you stir briskly until it reaches 
265°; then have him put in the % lb. 
of oleomargarine, remembering to stir con- 
stantly backward and forward in every direc- 
tion until the thermometer reads 275°. Now 
remove from fire to the floor near your slab, 
take out the thermometer as directed, hang it 
at the proper place, take the glass or cup 
with the baking soda and milk and stir well 
with a little stick or teaspoon, so that the 
liquid is of a uniform thickness. With pad- 
dle in the right hand, take hold of the kettle 
at one of the hand-lugs with your left. Let 
your assistant pour, in an even, slow stream, 
the soda and milk in the center while you 
stir until the mass puffs so high as to threaten 
to run over. Drop your paddle, lift your ket- 
tle rapidly, and pour out on your oiled slab. 
If auy remains on the side of the kettle scrape 
with a bowl-knife, or in the absence of this, 
with a large broad bread-knife, and put to 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 31 

one corner on the slab. Treat this the same 
as any of the preceding recipes; turn the 
ends over to the center, so that they do 
not get too brittle. When sufficiently cold 
put on hook and pull until of a nice, bright 
gold, glossy color. Now take from hook and 
shape like a loaf, as directed for plantation 
drops, only draw the neck out so that it will 
be an inch thick, and with a sharp pair of 
scissors cut in as near inch lengths as possi- 
ble ; this will make them an inch square. 



CHAPTER VII. 

TABLE FURNACE! ITS USE AND HOW TO CON- 
STRUCT ONE. 

If you were about to make some planta- 
tion drops or molasses kisses without reading 
further, you would say that there must be 
some more convenient way of doing this, be- 
cause you might be very quick and for all 
that the rolled mass would be hard before you 
could manipulate the whole batch. The use 
of a table furnace will obviate this. If you 
made only half the amount called for in the 
recipe, and moved about with a little speed, 
you could dispense with one. But as some 
of the following recipes require this imple- 
ment, we will explain its construction here. 

A table furnace is a piece of half-inch gas 
pipe 3 feet long, having small holes about a 
thirty-second of an inch in diameter, drilled 

32 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 33 

every half-inch apart. One end is tightly 
capped, the other end has an air mixer and a 
key to turn on the gas, with a hose connect- 
ing with your gas fixture. Over the back of 
this perforated gas pipe have a sheet of tin 
come up, and bend over like a sounding 
board to throw the heat on the table. On the 
table itself in front of the furnace tack down a 
sheet of tin, which saves your table from be- 
ing nicked and cut up in case of getting too 
warm. Rest this pipe on brackets or across 
some bricks. 



CHAPTEK VIII. 

HARDBREAK TAFFIES. 

Do not forget that you must always have 
your slab clean and oiled. It might not be 
inopportune here to mention that a marble 
slab is considered the best on which to 
pour hot syrups for cooling as well as for 
creaming and is more expensive than blue- 
stone. Should you, however, buy a stone in 
place of a marble you must first soak the 
stone repeatedly with cotton-seed oil, so that 
it becomes saturated ; otherwise your candy 
will stick while cooling, many hours' labor 
being required until you have it clean again. 

Hardbreak taffies are of the kind that are 
very thick, set with such nuts as narrow and 
broad cocoanut, peanuts, almonds, walnuts, 
etc. They are the easiest kind made, costing 
little labor, and sell for a good price : narrow 

34 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 35 

cocoanut, fifteen cents a pound ; broad, twenty- 
five cents; peanut, twenty cents; almond, 
forty cents ; walnut, forty cents. 

The slab is prepared as for any other re- 
cipe, only the short bars are set in rather 
close, and when you pour the taffy in the 
frame, if the bars are too close together so that 
it might ran over, move one short bar down 
far enough to avert the danger. 

COCOANUT TAFFY. 



Water, 


3 qts. 


Glucose, .... 


6 lbs. 


Sugar, 


5 lbs. 


Broad and narrow cocoanut, . 


2 lbs. 


Boil at 290°. 





Boil as in any preceding recipes. At 235° 
take the lid from the kettle, and from now on 
occasionally take your thermometer without 
lifting from the bottom and stir around until 
it reaches 290°; take from fire and place on 
the floor ; drain thermometer, and with a clean 
paddle in right hand let your assistant throw 
in the cocoanut, and when all the cocoanut is 



36 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

taffied put in the frame ou slab. Now, if you 
want the candy in shape of bars, cut them 
before getting too cold, in such widths and 
lengths as desired. 

PEANUT TAFFY. 

Water, 3 qts. 

Glucose, 6 lbs. 

Sugar, . . . . . . . 5 lbs. 

Peanuts, Spanish or Virginia, . 2 lbs. 
Boil at 290°. 

Follow instructions as heretofore given, 
matching your iron frame to suit quantity. 
Boil exactly as for the preceding ; when it 
reaches 290° take from tire and add 2 lbs. of 
either Spanish or Virginia peanuts, which have 
previously been stripped of the red coating 
which envelops them. This is done by taking 
a corn-popper and roasting them over a fire, 
then throwing them in a dishpan or wooden 
bowl. When you have them all roasted take a 
potato masher and pound them lightly. This 
causes them to halve and peel ; then take a 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 37 

newspaper and fan them; this causes the red 
skins to fly out. Shake up and dust again. 





ALMOND BAR. 




Water, 


...» 


. 3 qts. 


Glucose, . 


. 


. 6 lbs. 


Sugar, 


.... 


. 5 lbs. 


Almonds, 


• . . • 


. 2 lbs. 


Boil at 290' 


? 





While this recipe is made exactly as any 
of the foregoing, there is a caution to be 
observed as to the cost. Almonds vary in 
quality and price ; at times as cheap as fif- 
teen cents per lb. and at other times as high 
as thirty cents. When almonds are high 
you either use less or charge more. 



WALNUT BAR. 



Water, . 
Glucose, 
Sugar, . 
Soda, . 

English or black walnuts, 
Boil at 290°. 



3 qts. 
6 lbs. 
5 lbs. 
4 oz. 
2 lbs. 



Walnut bar looks better with a light- 
brown color. After boiling as in the pre- 



38 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

ceding recipes add the nuts, and while the 
paddle is in the kettle take about 4 oz. of 
baking soda, dry and sift through your left 
hand, stirring briskly with your right, then 
placing in frame, and when well set, yet not 
too cold, cut into bars. 

Cost of Materials. 

6 lbs. of glucose @ 3 cents per lb. . 18 
5 " " sugar, @ 5| " per lb. . 27£ 
2 " " peanuts @ 5| " per lb. . 11 

13 56J 

The average cost of peanuts is 4i cents; 
others in proportion. 



CHAPTER IX. 



YANKEE PEANUT OR NEW ENGLAND PEANUT 
BRITTLE. 



Water, . .... 


3 qts. 


Glucose, ..... 


3 lbs. 


Sugar, 


7 lbs. 


Light molasses, .... 


jpt. 


Cleaned peanuts, .... 


2 lbs. 


In the same glass : 




Baking soda (dissolved in milk with 




3 drops of red color), . 


4 oz. 


Vanilla, .... 4 tablespoons. 


Boil in winter at 290°: summer at 300°. 



I defy anyone to produce a peanut bar 
superior to this if directions are closely fol- 
lowed. The goods will keep summer or 
winter and the cost will not exceed 5^ cents 
per lb. Retails from fifteen cents to twenty- 
five cents per lb. 

Oil the slab without bars, place on one 
end of your slab a piece of board 9 

39 



40 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

inches long and about 5 inches wide with 
one edge pointed. Now have your pea- 
nuts roasted and clean, as in bard break 
recipe, in a box or dish. In a glass place 
4 oz. of baking soda witb enougb sweet milk 
to cause it to run thickly ; add to this bak- 
ing soda about 3 drops of brilliant rose and 
4 tablespoons of good vanilla. Place this 
glass on your marble slab near the spread- 
ing board. Now, with 3 qts. of water, y 2 pt. 
of light-colored molasses, 3 lbs. of glucose, 
and 7 lbs. of sugar, wash clown the inside 
of kettle ; put on a brisk fire, stirring a little, 
place thermometer, cover witb lid, and let 
boil to 240*. Remove cover out of your 
way; let the syrup boil to 270°. Now put 
on your gloves, and when the thermometer 
reacbes 270° take your paddle, wbicb must 
be clean and dry, in your right band and 
tbe disb of peanuts in tbe other, and 
gradually pour them into the center of the 
kettle, stirring faster and harder all the time 
until it reaches 290° strong. For this recipe, 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 41 

above all others, Lave someone to assist you. 
You can sell hundreds of pounds of this 
brittle, if made properly. Assuming an as- 
sistant is at hand to pour in the peanuts, take 
your thermometer in left and paddle in right 
hand, and proceed as above to 290°. Now 
take from lire and place near your slab. 
After draining thermometer, let your assist- 
ant stir up the vanilla, baking soda, milk, and 
color; take your paddle and begin to stir, 
while your assistant pours in the mixture 
until it puffs up almost to running over. 
Throw on slab and spread thin with your 
board. 



CHAPTER X. 

POP CORN AND CORN-BALLS. 

Every child knows how to pop corn. If 
you use a quart- size popper, use only about 2 
oz. of shelled corn at a time ; a bushel popper, 
2% lbs. of corn at one popping. You must 
never stop shaking, if you pop over a gas fire ; 
otherwise it will burn ; should it catch fire, 
shake hard. To make it more convenient 
and less tiresome, put a screw in the ceiling 
over your fire, from which hang a stiff wire 
to the popper, so that the latter is about two 
inches from the stove. Assume you have 
popped a pound of corn, which will make a 
short half bushel of flake-corn. Put this flake 
or popped corn in a tub or large wooden 
bowl. Then take 2 qts. of water, 3 lbs. of 
glucose, and 1 lb. of sugar; boil to 235 Q . 
Take from fire and pour this syrup over the 

42 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 43 

corn in your tab, and with your paddle stir 
from the rim to the center all around the tub. 
After cold enough press some in your hands, 
as the boys gather and make snowballs. If 
you want cocoanut corn-balls, sprinkle cocoa- 
nut over the loose corn before putting on your 
syrup. If you want the corn-balls red, use 
a few drops of brilliant rose in the syrup and 
stir around before putting on the corn. 

SUGAR CORN. 

The corn is popped the same as for corn- 
balls. In making the syrup, never use any 
glucose, simply sugar boiled with sufficient 
water to 235°. Use about 8 lbs. of sugar to 
the bushel of corn. Put the popped corn in 
a tub or wooden bowl. Now the syrup from 
the 8 lbs. of sugar is poured over, using 
half the syrup at a time ; stir from the rim 
across or to the center, endeavoring to coat 
each particle. When they separate pour 
the other half of the syrup on and stir about 
as before. 



44 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

By throwing % lb. of sugar among the corn, 
after it is well coated, the particles will sepa- 
rate more readily. 

CORN PUFF OR BRITTLE. 



Water, .... 


4 qts. 


Glucose, .... 


3 lbs. 


Sugar, . . 


. V lbs. 


Baking soda dissolved in milk, 


4 oz. 


Boil at 290°. 





This is made in the same manner as pea- 
nut brittle. In place of peanuts use the 
popped corn. After reaching 290° take from 
the fire and stir in a quantity of the corn, 
until the batch is fairly stiff ; add the soda 
and spread inside of the frame. If this is a 
good, quick seller with you, you can use 5 
lbs. of glucose to 5 lbs. of sugar and only 
boil to 265°. This makes it juicy and not so 
dry. 



CHAPTER XL 



CHIPS OR SITKAS. 



Water, . 
Glucose, 
Sugar, . 
Syrup, . 
Butter, 
Condensed milk, 



3 qts. 

4 lbs. 
6 lbs. 

1 pt. 

1 lb. 

1 can. 



Reduce with 4 oz. of baking soda, 4 tea- 
spoonfuls of vanilla. 
Boil at 285°. 

Boil the first part of recipe as any other at 
270°. Then have someone pour in the milk 
while you keep stirring. Add the butter or 
oleo at 280°; finish to 285 Q . After taking 
from fire reduce with the baking soda, and 
pull on hook. Place in front of your table 
furnace, which you have lighted previously, 
and pull out to % inch thickness, % inch wide, 

45 



46 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

and cut 1% inch long. These are afterward 
chocolate-coated, and are called chocolate 
chips. They should retail for forty cents 
per lb. 

See Part III., Chocolate-Coating. 



CHAPTER XII. 

STICK CANDY. 

Under the Lead of stick candy may also 
be included lemon, peppermint, horehound 
drops; in fact all striped goods and drops 
such as sour drops. The making of stick 
candy is more of a science than any other 
branch of confectionery, not because of any 
secret, but on account of the skill required in 
manipulating. Hard-boiled candy-making is 
a specialty, especially the striping, design- 
ing, and the producing of names and pictures 
in the center of stick candies. It is the least 
remunerative ; it requires at least two work- 
men, and it must be made in large quantities 
to be profitable. Therefore, in place of going 
into the details of making stick candies, I 
w r ill call your attention to the different styles 
and kinds of drops and how they are made. 

47 



48 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

These are, to a slight extent, profitable, selling 
from twenty to thirty cents per lb., and will 
also give you an opportunity to learn and 
practice making stick candy with a straight 
stripe and a curling stripe. The twisted stripe 
is made by rolling the mass with the right 
hand from you, and with the left towards 
you : this causes the stripe to assume a spiral 
shape. After you become proficient in evenly 
dividing and alternating the stripes you can 
make fancy goods, among which is a pepper- 
mint opera, made of pulled, white center, like 
vanilla taffy, with oil of peppermint in place 
of extract of vanilla, for flavor, and an alter- 
nate red and white stripe. 

You form a neck on one end in front of 
table furnace and then with the palms of 
your hands keep rolling and drawing out un- 
til it is about % inch thick, then cut with a 
shears into y 2 inch pieces. Every time you 
cut it makes the piece cut have ragged ends ; 
these ends are pressed together with the 
thumb and index-finger of each hand, then 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY REdlPES. 49 

pressed down with the thumb or a little block. 
This makes it circular, like a five-cent piece 
with a stripe that alternates. 

With cough drops or sour drops the process 
is simple. 

PEPPERMINT DROPS WITH WHITE STRIPES. 



Water, 
Glucose, 
Sugar, 
Syrup, 



3 qts. 

3 lbs. 

1 lbs. 

1 pt. 



This proportion of glucose to sugar is used 
whenever you want goods that you can rely 
on not to stick, and it need not be given 
again. The syrup is used to give them a 
dark-brown appearance. Proceed to boil as 
in any preceding recipe until the thermometer 
shows 290°. Lift from fire and pour on slab, 
turning the ends toward the center so that 
they will not get too cold. With a shears 
cut about a pound from the mass and pull 
swiftly on hook until white. Lay this piece 
of white in front of your table furnace, 
which you have lighted to keep warm. 



50 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

Take the other 9 lbs. still on your slab, and 
flavor with about 15 drops of the oil of 
peppermint, being careful to fold over, so 
that the flavor will be evenly distributed. 
Do not allow to get too cold. Place in front 
of your furnace aud pick up the piece you 
pulled to a whiteness, and draw out about a 
foot long and about ^ of an inch thick. 
Place this piece on top of the brown mass 
from end to end ; pull another piece the same 
way and lay about inch from the first strip, 
and so on until you have six or seven 
stripes. 

Now pick up the batch and fold over, so 
that the white stripes are on the outside ; shape 
a neck as explained, and draw out to about % 
inch thickness, or even thinner, and cut with 
a buttercup machine, so that the drops will 
be y 2 inch square. 

If you leave out the syrup in this recipe, 
your mints will be lighter in color. Lemon 
drops are made like the peppermints, not 
using any syrup, so that the mass will be 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 51 

clear. Stripe white and flavor with lemon 
extract. 

HOREHOUND DROPS. 

Boil 1 lb. of horehound tea in a gallon of 
water and make tea as you would make any 
other tea, and strain the water. Use this 
water with the sugar and glucose and boil 
the same as for peppermint drops, adding 1 
pt. of honey. Some people put a little green 
color in the tea, but be sure that you use 
only spinach green, or non-poisonous coloring. 

LIME DROPS 

Are made as are horehound drops, except 
in the use of the oil of limes for flavoring. 
Usually neither lime nor horehound drops are 
striped. 

Never refuse to examine the goods in an 
agent's sample case. You may be assured 
that some recipe in this book will cover the 
mode of making. Every candy house tries 
something new to get trade; you have the 



52 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

key in your possession. Look at their goods, 
and if found to be a good seller, proceed and 
make a small quantity, applying such a recipe 
as the case calls for. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



THE ORIGINAL WORLD S FAIR CHEWING TAFFY. 

Note. — Whenever you boil candy that con- 
tains cream, scour your kettle with vinegar 
and salt before using, being careful to rinse 
and dry it well. This is especially so if you 
have a copper kettle. To make the whole of 
this recipe your kettle must hold 5 gals. 



Otherwise it will boil over. 




Hot water, . 


1 qt. 


Glucose, 


, . 


8 lbs. 


Sugar, 


. 


5 lbs. 


Cream, 


, 


i gal. 


Best oleo, 


. 


. . i lb. 


Cream tartar, 


. 


1 teaspoon 


Paraffin, 


. 


2 oz. 


Condensed milk, . 


. 


1 can 



Steam 1 oz. of gelatine and use at 235° 
Flavor with vanilla while pulling. 

Prepare your slab with iron bars on, as for 
any other pulled taffy. Have a rice steamer 

53 



54 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

at band with 1 oz. of gelatine, well dissolved 
in about 2 oz. of water. Keep it hot until 
ready to use. After putting in all the 
ingredients of the formula wash down the 
inside of kettle as you do for all other recipes. 
See that you have a rousing fire and that your 
kettle does not touch any of the coals ; other- 
wise it will burn. Have your assistant at 
hand to pour the gelatine in the center at the 
proper time, and if you have no one at hand, 
rather leave it out, or pour in after you take 
from fire, allowing it to boil 3 degrees higher. 
Put on your buckskin gloves and fasten your 
sleeves at the wrists. This will be a warm 
job, and you can never leave it after putting 
on the fire. Put your kettle on the fire, and 
with thermometer in left, and paddle in 
right hand, begin to stir at ouce, stirring back- 
ward and forward in every direction. Pres- 
ently it will commence boiling, and after boil- 
ing a little higher it will begin to foam. Stir 
faster in a circle in the center; this causes the 
vapor to escape and keeps it from boiling 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 55 

over. I have a lady pupil that makes this 
receipe to perfection, although she has no 
facilities other than an ordinary kitchen 
stove and preserving kettle, but she makes 
just the half of the recipe at one time, her 
kettle holding only 3 gals, of water ; this mode 
taking her two hours. With a good fire it 
ought not to take longer than twenty 
minutes. Now remember not to quit stirring. 
When the thermometer calls for 235°, have 
your assistant pour in the center the dis- 
solved gelatine, stirring hard at the bottom 
where the gelatine drops, so that it will not 
burn. Continue boiling until you reach 255°. 
Take from fire and pour on slab, turning the 
ends over. Pull on your hook, when cold 
enough to handle, until of a cream whiteness; 
flavor while pulling. Now have a bucket at 
hand with wax paper around inside and 
at bottom. Put this in the bucket and 
set in a cool place to harden ; then use. It 
sells for forty cents per lb., or 2 oz. for five 
cents. 



CHAPTER XIY. 



CARAMELS. 



I speak only of high-class goods, such as 
retail at thirty cents per pound or more. First- 
class caramels contain no gelatine and are 
made of something more than glucose. Sago 
milling is used in place of gelatine. The 
formula is nearly akin to French chewing. 
You boil as in that recipe, except that 
you do not add the gelatine, but continue 
boiling until 255°. Remove from the fire 
and pour in about y 2 lb. of sago milling, which 
you previously boiled to a transparency. 
Look at your thermometer, which you have 
left in, and if it dropped below 248° put 
back on the fire again until it comes up to 248°. 
Then if these are to be vanilla, pour in the 
vanilla flavor and stir about. You will have 
to gauge your frame on the slab so as not to 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 57 

have it too far apart. Study the following 
instructions for caramels. 

Oil your slab well. See that your slab is 
perfectly level. Pour in the frame so that it 
is almost on a level with the top of the bars. 
If about to run over the bars, move one short 
bar a little. 

CARAMEL RECIPE. 



Water, . 




1 qt. 


Glucose, . 




. 8 lbs. 


Sugar, . . . 




. 5 lbs. 


Cream, . 




. |gal. 


Best oleo, 




. 1 lb. 


Cream tartar, 




1 teaspoonful 


Condensed milk, 




1 can 


Boil 1 lb. of sago mill 


ing 


to an even trans- 


pareiicy; add until thermometer shows 248°, 


later cut to sizes and wr 


ap. 




Boil at 255°. 







STRAWBERRY CARAMELS. 

Make the same as vanilla, but with this 
difference, that you add coloring after putting 
in the extract of strawberry ; the quantity 
of coloring varying according to intensity of 
color wanted. 



58 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 
CHOCOLATE CAEAMELS. 

To the vanilla recipe as given, add 1 lb. of 
chocolate and y 2 lb. of chocolate paste, before 
putting on the fire. 

MAPLE CARAMELS. 

Add to the vanilla recipe l / 2 gal. of maple 
syrup. 

NUT CARAMELS. 

Add the minced nuts after removing from 
the fire. 

Note — If you do not wish to use sago 
milling use 4 oz. of white gelatine, previously 
dissolved, and pour into the batch at 235° 
and finish at 248°. 



CHAPTER XV. 



SATIN-GLOSS GOODS — BUTTER 


CHIPS — 


RIBBON. 






Water, 




3 qts. 


Rock candy syrup, 




igal. 


Glucose, .... 




3 lbs. 


Sugar, 




7 lbs. 


Add color on slab before pulling. 




Boil at 295o. 







Take from fire and pour out on slab. 
Color in these goods is what makes them 
attractive ; they must be either of deep or of 
a pale color. Place the color, which must be 
a vegetable paste, in the center of the mass on 
the slab, after you have turned the ends over 
to the center several times. 

If you want to have them striped, say 
white and red, or white and yellow, cut off 
from the batch before coloring about I lb. and 

09 



60 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

pull this small piece first ; then lay in front 
of your table furnace, and proceed to pull 
the remainder until it has a shining appear- 
ance. 

Then place this also in front of furnace 
and stripe to suit. Then form a neck and 
draw out thin about one and a half inch 
wide ; lay in the center of this strip any 
chopped nuts or cream ; fold over and stroke 
so that it assumes an oval shape. Take 
your scissors and cut half-squares. Use a 
buttercup machine, as this makes them more 
uniform. 

Boston chips are made exactly as butter- 
cups, only left in ribbon shape. Here again 
practice assures perfection. Have a flannel 
cloth tacked to your table, like a pad, and 
when your hands feel sweaty rub the palms 
over this cloth. A small piece of paraffin, 
rubbed over the mass in front of your furnace, 
adds to the gloss. 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 61 
NO. 2 RECIPE. 



Water, 




. 3 qts. 


Rock candy syrup, 




• igah 


Glucose, 




. 2 lbs. 


Sugar, .... 




. 8 lbs. 


Reduce with 4 oz. of bakin 


'g 


soda dis- 


solved in 2 oz. milk. 






Boil at 320 c . 







CHAPTER XVI. 



LOZENGE-MAKING. 



Making lozenges is very simple. The 
mode of procedure is such as the housewife 
uses in making biscuit shortening. By using 
dissolved gelatine, or glucose boiled to 230°, 
which makes a stiff syrup, the cost of 
lozenges will be greatly reduced. Likewise 
sago milling, after being dissolved in water 
for some 12 hours and then boiled to a thin, 
flowing paste, can be used to cheapen the 
cost. The pure and best lozenge syrup is 
made from gum arabic, a pound of which is 
dissolved in a quart of water. We will ex- 
plain the mode of making with the gum- 
arabic syrup. Dust your kitchen table, or 
for that matter a board 24 inches square, 
with some corn starch. Iu the center of this 
place 2 lbs. of pulverized sugar in a mound 

62 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 63 

shape — the finer the sugar the smoother the 
paste. Hollow out the sugar and pour in 
center some of the gum arable or any of the 
others mentioned above, and work into the 
sugar likewise the flavor and color, according 
to the kind you are making. If the mass be- 
comes clammy,-— that is, if the paste sticks to 
your fingers,— add more sugar, and if dry and 
crumbling add more gum arabic. Dust your 
table with a little more starch and prepare to 
roll out with your rolling pin as you would do 
if you intended rolling pie crust or biscuits. 
Peppermint and wintergreen are rolled to 
% inch thickness, while musk and medicinal 
are rolled less than % of an inch in thickness. 

Wintergreen and musk are colored red and 
worked in along with the essence and syrup 
while kneading. 

After rolling the paste to the thickness 
you think is right you must have a cutter to 
cut them. By using a knife you can cut 
quite a few shapes. 

First cut a few half-strips and then cut 



64 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

them triangular, diamond, and square shape. 
To make a scalloped or a round edge you 
must have a cutter, which you can obtain at 
a tinner's establishment 

Always use the oils of peppermint and 
wintergreen for lozenges of these respective 
names. For medicinal lozenges, a physician 
can give you the necessary formula. 

After you have shaped your lozenges by 
cutting with a knife or mold, put them on 
a dusted pie plate to dry ; after twenty-four 
hours pack in boxes, or jars, and they will 
keep for years. In this manner all lozenges 
and tablets are made. Large establishments 
have special machines that print as well as 
form them, and their output is such that 
labor scarcely forms a factor in the cost of 
production. 

Some lozenges contain terra alba (white 
clay) ; others a goodly proportion of starch. 
The former you can distinguish, in that, after 
the coating is eaten, the center lacks sweet- 
ness and has a clayey taste. Some States 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 65 

have special legislation regarding the use of 
this and other poisonous adulterations, nota- 
bly the State of Kansas. Sore mouth is one 
evil of thousands that afflict those who eat 
cheap confections. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

JELLIES. 

In this chapter we speak of that particular 
kind of jelly which is used with a quantity 
of sugar and glucose and flavored with some 
kind of fruit flavor or jam, making a soft 
transparent confection in place of one of a 
crisp or creamy or " chewey " consistence, and 
is used to alternate layers of cream, as well as 
represent fruits or designs, such as a crescent, 
an acorn, a star, etc., all of which are molded 
in cornstarch, as will be explained in Part II. 

As in the preceding chapter, the ingredi- 
ents used in preparing these goods are highly 
adulterated by the makers of cheap candies, 
glue and decayed fruit being oftentimes 
used, acids preventing their detection. 

Take 1 lb. of sao;o milling and soak in 
sufficient water to cover for twelve hours, 

66 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 67 

and then boil as for the making of pudding. 
After boiling to a transparency add 2 lbs. 
of whatever jam you intend to name the 
jelly ; let us say apricot or strawberry. With 
the apricot, as the fruit is usually light, add 
no coloring ; but if strawberry jam is used 
add 3 drops of brilliant rose, to conform to 
the color of the fruit. 

Stir the jam with the color or without, as 
the case requires, into the boiling sago, while 
in a liquid form ; after it thickens set aside to 
cool, as you do for pudding. When the sago 
is nearly thick enough to remove from the 
fire, take your candy kettle, put in 3 qts. of 
water, and allow to come to a boil on the 
lire ; remove to the floor and add Sj4 lbs. of 
glucose and 7 lbs. of sugar. Wash down the 
sides, put back again on the fire, and boil as 
in any other candy recipe, until it reaches 
250°. Remove from fire to the floor, first 
observing whether your fire is sufficiently 
strong in case you are obliged to set it back 
on the fire ; if not, add a little more fuel. 



68 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

Now take the thermometer in left hand and 
a clean, dry paddle in your right — always 
supposing you to be right-handed ; and have 
your assistant drop into the candy syrup a 
small quantity at a time of the apricot- or 
strawberry-flavored sago, while you keep 
constantly stirring until all is dissolved. 
Look at your thermometer, and if it shows 
a less degree than 238°, put back on the 
fire again and allow it to reach this degree, 
noting that you must keep stirring to pre- 
vent burning. After removing from fire stir 
into the batch 2y 2 oz. of tartaric acid, finely 
powdered — which is done with a rolling pin. 
This adds to the fruit taste as well as pre- 
vents adhesion when exposed to the air. 
Having prepared beforehand y 2 dozen or more 
pans, according to size you have on hand, 
with paper well oiled, pour this syrup to a 
depth of Y\ inch in the pans and allow to cool 
and harden for twenty-four hours. The 
following day steam some dipping cream 
(see Part II. chapters hi. and ix. and xv„), 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 69 

either vanilla, cocoanut, coffee, maple, etc., 
and when sufficiently warm to permit of 
spreading put on top of this a layer of this 
cream of % inch in thickness. When firm 
and well set, turn the pan over gently and 
remove the oiled paper ; then spread a layer 
of this cream or of some other flavor on this 
side, and allow to set. Afterward cut into 
squares, or diamond or oblong pieces, then 
throw among granulated sugar, or crystal A, 
or crystallize in syrup. 

This jelly syrup can also be run in starch 
molds of any design : see Part II., Introduc- 
tion, and chapter viii. 

Fish gelatine can also be used in the 
quantity given in the foregoing recipe as 
well as the brand " Oswego Starch." 

Wholesome gelatine is made from calves' 
feet. These are first cleaned, removing any 
hair or dark substance before boiling. To 
a set of calves' feet add a gallon of water 
and put on the fire and allow to boil slowly 
for about three hours, so that at the end of 



10 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

this time the water in your stewing pot will 
be reduced to one-half gallon. Remove 
from fire and strain through a coarse cloth 
or jelly bag. After a few hours it will set 
firm. 

When ready to use you will find a suet 
covering on top of the jelly ; wash this suet 
off, put the jelly on a slow fire again, adding 
a half cup of water, and allow to dissolve. 
Now add 2 lbs. of any jam to the ^ gal. of 
jelly, and proceed as in the previous recipe, 
boiling the sugar and glucose as directed. 
As in marshmallow goods, the well-beaten 
albumen of one-half dozen or more eggs, 
when added to the jelly before pouring into 
the boiled syrup, will make it light and 
wavy. You can finish as in the other recipe. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



MARSHMALLOW PASTE. 



Marshmallow paste is akin to jelly goods. 
Genuine marsh mallows are made of gum 
arabic, fine pulverized sugar, flavoring, and 
the well- whisked albumen of many eggs. 

The cheap grades are made of gelatine, 
honey to sweeten, cornstarch, flavoring, aud 
white of eggs, For figures or designs you 
cast in mold. 

PURE MARSHMALLOW. 

Dissolve 2 lbs, of gum arabic in y 2 gal. of 
water; this is best done by first pulverizing 
the gum arabic and then adding the y 2 gal, 
of water, setting the pan containing the gum 
and y 2 gal. of water in another with water be- 
tween on the fire, as in a rice steamer, and 
stir the gum occasionally until dissolved. 

71 



1-2 . PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

Now take your candy kettle, which roust be 
cleau, and strain the dissolved gum through 
a hair sieve, as you strain coffee ; add 2 lbs. 
of fine sugar, and put on a moderate fire; 
stir until, on taking a little out and putting 
into cold water, it will work up into a soft 
ball. 

Now add gradually the well-beaten whites 
of one dozen eggs, paddling round and round 
from side to center, as you do when turning 
syrup to cream in a kettle. Now try a little 
between } T our fingers ; if it does not stick, 
add the flavor either of vanilla or oil of rose ; 
put into a pan already dusted with starch 
and allow to set; later cut into squares or 
strips. You can chocolate-coat some if you 
wish. 



PART II. 



INTRODUCTORY. 
CHAPTER I. 

NECESSITIES FOR HOME OR SMALL FACTORY 
MANUFACTURING. 

In Part L, I said that the few implements 
enumerated were essential. In this Part 
I might say that is all } r ou require. But I 
intend to instruct you how to make your 
goods so that each and every piece will be 
uniform. This cannot well be done by hand. 
For this purpose gum molds are used. They 
are the least trouble and cause less dust. 
But for a beginner starch molds are better, 
on the score of economy. Herein will be 
found directions how to proceed in case you 
intend going into the business extensively. 

73 



74 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

The first requisite, to be obtained at a con- 
fectioner's supply Louse, is a starch board or 
tray which has the following dimensions: It 
is 33 inches long by 16% wide, and which is 
filled with corn starch as a m older fills a flask 
with sand in a foundry to make a casting. 
The starch with which these trays or boards 
are filled is so fine and light in gravity that it 
is carried about in the air like flour in any 
milling establishment, if disturbed, and 
thereby in time considerable is lost, besides 
giving everything the appearance of a dusty 
miller. To save as much as possible of this 
starch while handling, as well as helping to 
keep things clean, construct a box with the 
joints and seams white-leaded to have it dust 
proof, in this way: Let the bottom be 20 
inches wide by 30 inches long and let the 
sides flare out at such an ano'le that the 
top will be 12 inches wider and longer than 
the bottom, with a depth of 22 inches. 

Now place two pieces of 1 X 2" wood 
across to act as a brace, and also to keep the 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 75 

starch boards from shifting when filling, as 
the least jar may destroy the impressions made 
in the starch in the starch board before they 
are filled with the cream. Each starch board 
has a cleat at each end so that when setting 
one on top of the other the air can pass be- 
tween, therefore place these two pieces of 
1 x 2" wood at such distance apart that the 
blocks will freely pass down and yet the 
cleats will prevent shifting to and fro, and 
yet you can slide the tray from you and to- 
ward you when filling and molding on these 
cross pieces. This starch box will hold a 
bbl. of starch, sufficient to fill 15 starch trays 
or boards. 

Assume that you knew all about making 
the cream and wanted to make some choco- 
late drops. You would take a piece of 
wood iy 2 inch square and 4 inches longer than 
a starch tray is wide, and on this stick glue 
seven chocolate-drop molds evenly separated, 
beginning about 3^ inches from one end and 
finish the same distance from the other end : 



76 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

obtain these molds at a supply house ; they 
cost about fifty cents a dozen. 

Take an empty starch tray and place in 
your starch box on these two cross-pieces, 
and shove over to the opposite side as far as 
it goes. Take a plate or scoop and fill the 
tray heaping high with starch, then draw the 
tray over so that it will be an even distance 
from the side opposite the one you are work- 
ing against. Take a stick the same thickness 
as the one you have the molds glued on, but 
which must be perfectly smooth, so that it 
will not leave furrows in the starch. Then 
take the other stick on which you have glued 
the chocolate-drop molds, and try and begin 
making eight rows of impressions in the 
starch, afterward making thirteen rows with 
ninety-one impressions. Three trays of these 
impressions filled with cream equal 5 lbs. of 
finished confections. 

For each different kind of confection you 
intend making you must have different 
molds. You use the same starch, now and 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 77 

again sifting it to free it from pieces or par- 
ticles of cream that may be found in it. 

When starch is kept in constant use it be- 
comes clamp and will not take perfect im- 
pressions. 

To remedy this heat some irons or stones, 
and when through using at night put these 
in the box, and by morning your starch will 
be ready for use. These instructions are for 
those who have a place of business. 

The process for domestic use will be given 
in another chapter. 



CHAPTER II. 

CREAM. 

Sugar, as you know, is granular. By 
being boiled again and worked by a simple 
process of friction or rubbing it is changed 
to a condition of softness and smoothness 
called cream. Hand, or mechanical, manipu- 
lation transforms this into the most delicious 
and nutritious food. 

CLAY OR DIPPING CREAM — KISS CREAM AL- 

LEGRETTA CREAM. 

As we mentioned in Part L, you must 
have a marble slab (although cream can be 
made without one), a thermometer, iron bars, 
and a kettle. 

Before beginning always keep in mind the 
rules for cleanliness laid down in Part I., and 
those regarding your marble slab or stone. 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 19 

Recipes in Part I. called for oiling the slab. 
In making cream yon do not oil the slab, but 
have it perfectly clean and dry. Some 
candy-makers advise spraying the slab with 
clean water. I think perfectly dry is the 
better way. 

ESSENTIALS BEFORE BEGINNING. 

Clean your copper kettle with salt and 
vinegar, and see the rim is perfectly clean ; 
rinse well, and dry. Attend to the bars with 
hot water and see that your thermometer is 
also clean. Wash your marble slab with 
warm water and a little soap ; rinse and dry 
well. Observe also whether your slab is 
perfectly level ; a spirit level will tell you 
best. To produce a fine cream, the syrup 
must not be higher in one place than another ; 
otherwise it will not cool evenly, and some 
portions will be fine and others coarse. 

Place the iron bars in a frame -shape on the 
cleaned marble slab ; bring your eye on a 
level with your slab and see whether there is 



80 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

any crevice between the bars and slab ; if so, 
soak a cloth in water, wring it out, and put 
where the crevice is. Do this if any of the 
other sides require it. If you did not attend 
to this, your syrup, when poured on the slab, 
would run to waste. With these prelim- 
inary instructions we will now proceed to 
make 

CLAY CREAM. 

This cream is made of pure sugar, with or 
without a pinch of cream of tartar, but until 
you become experienced do not use this. 
When sufficiently expert to adopt its use, 
take about % of an ounce to 25 lbs. of 
sugar. This amount of tartar is equivalent 
to a pinch, or what you gather between the 
thumb and index finger, pressing them tightly. 
Clay cream is used in fine confections as 
centers. You will ask for an explanation of 
the word center. In one of the preceding 
chapters you were told how to make impres- 
sions in your starch trays. When these im- 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 81 

pressions are filled, they form the center for 
some finished confection either chocolate or 
cream, and from this position are technically 
called "centers." 



CHAPTER III. 



CLAY CREAM. 



Water, boiling hot, . . .. 3 qts. 

Sugar, ... . .10 lbs. 

Temperature, 235°. 

Take your paddle and mix together well. 
After lifting your kettle on the fire stir a 
few minutes, so that the sugar will be dis- 
solved. Take your wet cloth and wash 
kettle down to the mixture ; put in your 
thermometer and cover with the lid. As 
long as it steams heavily you need not take 
the lid off, but afterward you can now and 
again take it off to see what the temperature 
is. When it reaches 230° remove the lid and 
with your wet cloth wash down the sides of 
your kettle. Put on your gloves, and when 
the heat reaches 235° lift from fire and pour 
on slab, being careful, in taking out the 

82 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 83 

thermometer, uot to allow a drop to fall on 
the side of kettle. 

Allow the syrup which you poured out on 
your slab to become* cold, which will take 
about two hours. Then, if you are making 
only a small quantity, take a kitchen turn- 
over used in turning hot cakes, and begin 
close to the right-hand iron bar. Shove your 
paddle or turnover in close to the junction of 
the side and bottom iron bar, and push it 
along until within six inches from the top 
bar, turning your paddle over so that the 
side which was seen in shoving it up will 
now face down and the bottom up. 

Shove the paddle up again until you are 
nearly in the center, and then start from the 
other side and work this the same way. You 
will now have nearly the whole syrup 
worked up to the upper bar. Reverse your 
position by going to the side, and work the 
stiff syrup down to the center of slab; then 
take your former position and work as first 
directed, reversing your position when you 



84 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

see the syrup is about to run over the bar; 
gradually it will cream, turning as white as 
snow. Take this cream now and put in a 
can or crock and cover. It will soften again 
in a few hours and be ready for use. If the 
cream on the following day is gritty, you can 
know that you paddled it when warm, other- 
wise it will be as smooth as glass. Again, if 
it turns to sugar on the slab, you may be sure 
that you either were not clean about some- 
thing or allowed some foreign substance to 
drop in. In making a large quantity, buy a 
cream paddle at the confectioner's supply 
store. 

To make cream without a slab you leave 
the syrup in the kettle undisturbed for an 
hour ; then take a wooden paddle perfectly 
clean and begin to beat from the side to the 
center all around until it creams. It is best 
to stand your kettle in a bucket or ice-cream 
packer; this keeps it from moving about 
when you paddle. 

Note. — In making cream, whether on the 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 85 

slab or in the kettle, be certain that there is 
no dirt or scum on the surface of the sugar 
while boiling. If so, use your skimmer, 
bringing it out from center. 



CHAPTER IV. 

KISS CREAM. 

In this cream recipe use tbe following pro- 
portions : 

Water, . . . . . 3 qts. 

Glucose, . . ... 3 lbs. 

Sugar, ..... 7 lbs. 

Temperature 244°. 

Let tbe syrup lie on slab until cool, but 
not cold. 

You can tell by forcing tbe end of your 
finger through tbe mass down on tbe slab. 
If it is warm, but so that you can keep tbe 
tip of your finger there, though you perceive 
that tbe slab is warm, it is the proper time to 
paddle. In the clay cream recipe the syrup 
and slab must be cold. 

To make in kettle leave thermometer in 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 87 

until it drops to 120°; take out thermometer 
and paddle. 

WHIPPING CREAM. 

This requires a cream beater, as f glucose 
is used to f sugar, and worked while 
warm. In paddling it would be impossible 
for you to cream it. In the proportion of 
l / 2 sugar to % glucose, boiled to 244° and 
creamed like the kiss cream recipe, I have 
made this cream so that when breaking the 
dipping crust, you would think that it was 
liqueur confection, by adding a fair quantity 
of glycerine in f unneling. 

ALLEGRETTA CREAM. 

In giving this recipe, as with all others 
pertaining to cream, the author gives such 
varieties as can be brought to perfection with 
hand labor. Where manufacturing is done on 
a large scale cream beaters are employed, 
and in that case greater varieties can be 



88 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

secured. In this recipe we give a formula in 
part used in Alokuma and Genesee. 

Water, 2 qts. 

Sugar, 12 lbs. 

Glucose, ..... 2 lbs. 

Honey, ..... 1 cup 

Cream, ..... | gal. 

Steamed gelatine, . . . i oz - 

Boil at 240°. Proceed carefully ; with 
thermometer in left hand and paddle in right, 
stir constantly until 240°. Now stir in y 2 oz. 
of steamed gelatine, and let it come up again. 
Take from fire, and let stand with thermom- 
eter in, and when 140° is reached, take out 
your thermometer and with a clean paddle 
start paddling from side to center until it is 
about to cream and thicken. While you are 
waiting for it to cool, after taking; from the 
fire, take a granite bucket and see that it is 
perfectly dry. Now break a dozen eggs, 
taking every precaution not to get any yolk 
mixed with the white. The yolks you can 
use in making ice cream. Beat the white of 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 89 

these twelve eggs to a stiff froth ; in a glass 
or cup put 4 oz. of cornstarch sifted, iu an- 
other glass 2 oz. of vanilla. Now, when the 
cream begins to stiffen from paddling, put in 
the whites beaten to a froth and paddle again, 
put in your cornstarch and then the flavor. 



CHAPTER Y. 

HA^D WORK. 

The uses of the creams we have just made 
will form the subject of this chapter, iu 
which we shall confine ourselves to hand 
work ; that is, confections made without 
being molded in starch. Dust a little corn- 
starch on a table, leaving more in a deep dish 
in case you need it. Have a few pie plates 
or bread pans at hand, likewise dusted with 
starch. 

Take about 2 lbs. of kiss cream and place 
on the part you have dusted; then about 
1 lb. of the whipped cream on top of the 
kiss cream. Knead the two together, so that 
there are no lumps or hard particles left. 
Add y 2 teaspoon of glycerine and work in. 
When perfectly smooth leave in a heap. 

90 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 91 

Take about Yz ]b. of this worked cream in 
your hands, which you ought always to dust 
with some starch to keep from sticking, and 
roll out round to a half inch thickness. 
Take an ordinary knife, and cut in ^ inch 
lengths ; put these short pieces on one of 
your pie plates. Take another half pound 
or so, and do likewise ; cutting ^ inch 
lengths, roll in between }^our hands until 
they look like marbles, such as the boys play 
with. Put these on another of the dusted 
plates. Take another half jiound, and roll 
between your hands until it is about y 2 inch 
thick ; then with your knife cut the first 
little piece oblong, and then make the next 
cut so that it will have a diamond shape ; 
put these on another plate. Take another 
part of this clay and whipped cream, and roll- 
ing out >i inch pieces, perfectly round, like 
a stick of candy, cut them with your 
knife y 2 inch thick, and lay on fiat side on 
a dusted plate to keep their rounded edge, 
and so on ; making any other shape you 



92 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

desire. Leave these centers you have just 
made exposed to the air of a warm dry room 
for six hours ; then dip, as will be explained 
later. 



CHAPTER VI. 

STARCH WORK. 

The previous chapter gave you an idea 
how to make centers by hand. Iu this chap- 
ter we simply repeat what was explained in 
a preceding chapter. 

Having your starch box constructed as 
was explained, and a variety of smooth molds 
on hand of different shapes, fill a tray with 
starch and smooth off with your stick. Now 
take one mold, say a chocolate shape, and 
make the impressions. After you have 
made two or three trays with this impression 
of the mold in the starch, take another 
stick that has some other shape glued 
on, and make two or three trays of this im- 
pression, then a diamond shape, and so on. 
When you have filled these trays, you can 
build a rack and slide one above the other. 

93 



94 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

In band work the cream is worked and 
shaped by hand ; in starch it is tunneled. 
You buy the funnel with a stick at the sup- 
ply house. This stick fits down in the hole 
and opens and shuts as you manipulate it. 
After you have finished your starch trays — 
or you can do this while making your im- 
pressions and save time — put a dish-pan y. 
filled with water on the stove and let it boil. 
Take a 2-qt. granite bucket and fill with y^ 
kiss cream, first working through your fin- 
gers, pressing out any lumps that may be in, 
then take ^ whipping cream, kneading it 
also before putting in. Take the bucket it- 
self now and place in the hot water, noting 
that there is no danger of the water boiling 
and getting into the cream. Place a plate on 
the bucket, so that all danger of water get- 
ting in is removed. Never let this cream, or 
any other cream you place on the fire to 
soften, boil or even overheat ; otherwise it 
will harden. Take a paddle and stir now 
and again, so as to soften sooner. When 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 95 

soft, which you learn to be the case if the 
cream runs from the paddle, add 1 teaspoon 
of alcohol, 1 teaspoon of glycerine, and stir 
in. Take your funnel in the left hand and 
see that the stick is tight in the hole. 
With your right hand take out your bucket 
or rice boiler with the cream, and fill your 
funnel. Put the rest of the cream in the 
bucket back into the boiling water. Hold- 
ing the handle of the funnel in your left 
hand, with knuckles down, take the stick of 
the funnel between the first and second fin- 
gers of your right hand, and going over to 
your starch trays lift the stick about y 2 inch 
in the funnel and shut down quick over each 
impression in the starch, filling them just 
even with the level starch. Practice will 
make you perfect in filling these molds 
quickly. Try to have your trays arranged 
so that you will not be obliged to set your 
funnel down, but should it happen, have a 
tin or deep glass at hand and then let the 
taper end rest in the glass. Never refill fun- 



96 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

nel before removing the cold cream which 
adheres to the sides of the funnel in the warm 
cream, stirring all together while in the hot 
water. This prevents your funnel from be- 
ing clogged or your cream from becoming 
coarse. After your first attempt you can 
have several steamers or buckets of cream 
dissolving at one time, which will permit you 
to do faster work. 

These centers you have just made will be 
ready for use in a few hours. 



CHAPTER VII. 

DIPPING CREAMS OR BONBONS. 

Now with the centers made either by hand 
or in starch, you are ready in a few minutes 
to turn out the highest quality of creams, 
which usually retail for forty cents per lb. 

Take an oatmeal or rice boiler, put in 
about x /z gal. of water in lower pan and let 
come to boiling. . 

Take and fill the upper vessel with either 
clay or allegretta cream. Never use kiss or 
whipped cream, as they contain glucose and 
in a few days will spot. Use a small paddle 
and stir from the bottom up, always trying 
to dissolve it as quickly as possible ; other- 
wise, if overheated, the dipping crust be- 
comes hard. For this reason it is best to 
remove from the stove and with your paddle 
stir about so that the cream at the bottom, 

97 



98 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

where it is the hottest, is worked up into the 
top cream, which is cooler. 

Presuming that your cream is by this time 
dissolved, seat yourself conveniently at a 
table upon which you have placed a plate 
with some halves of walnuts and split 
almonds, hazel, pecan, and pistache nuts. 

On another dish place the centers you 
have either made by hand or in the starch, 
and which you dusted either with a starch 
bellows or a fan, removing any loose starch 
that may have adhered to them. Have also 
at hand a few boards about 12 x 14 inches; 
place on each board a piece of dipping paper 
or wax paper, though the former is better. 
Take an ordinary two-prong table fork, or 
you can buy a regular dipping fork at the 
supply house for ten cents. Throw a center 
into the warm cream in your steamer and 
with your fork see that it is entirely sub- 
merged ; then lift up and slide fork to the 
side of the steamer and stroke off the super- 
fluous cream. Put on the wax paper by 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 99 



turning your hand down so that the fork is 
on the top of the center you just dipped. Do 
not shake, but try to let it drop from the 
fork. By this means you make a long thread. 
While the cream is still soft drop a walnut 
on this piece. After dipping another put an 
almond on this piece, a small piece of pine- 
apple on another, half a cherry on another, 
and so on, dipping some plain. Practice 
permits young girls to dip 100 lbs. a day. 
Say you had a confectionery and employed a 
girl at four dollars per week, and she would 
dip 400 lbs. of them for you. 

If you would take the middleman's price for 
these goods, which sell wholesale at $1.25 for 
a 5-lb. box, allowing $3.00 per day for labor 
from 7 a. m. to 5 p. m., examine the result. 

Your expenses would be for a week : 



Proprietor, . 
Helper, . 
Dipper, . 
Sugar (400 lbs.), 
Flavors, etc., 



$18.00 

7.50 

4.00 

24.00 

10.00 

$63.50 



100 PRAC1ICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 



Cost of production, . 


$63.50 


80 5-lb. boxes, 2 l / 2 cents, . 


2.00 


2 girls to pack, $2.50, 


5.00 



$70.50 

I leave it to you to say whether there is 
any profit in making bonbons. Say you 
have an opportunity to retail them at Christ- 
mas-time in your own store at 40 cents, the 
regular retail price, you have 40 times 400, or 
$160. They are sold in penny stores at 1 
cent apiece. 

Just as you varied the tops with different 
sorts of nuts, so you are expected to vary the 
colors and flavor accordingly. Never color 
cream at night, much less in the dark. Color 
is very deceptive. Too much color hurts the 
sale of goods, so be particular. After dip- 
ping about 2 lbs. of white, vanilla-flavored nut- 
top bonbons, take a few drops of red coloring 
and a teaspoonful of extract of strawberry, 
adding drop by drop, so as not to give too 
deep a tint. Now you will have white and 
red. After emptying the steamer scrape 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 101 

clean, and put in your steamer a few pounds 
more of the clay or allegretta cream. Make 
these yellow, and flavor with orange or 
lemon. After your steamer is empty again 
add more cream and color pea-green and 
flavor with pistache. Afterwards make 
chocolate, then heliotrope — a little blue and 
red mixed — with a faint color. 



CHAPTEK VIII. 

COCOANUT CARAMELS 

Are made from kiss cream, observing the 
following method : The day before you in- 
tend to make them take about 2 lbs. of shred- 
ded cocoanut and boil in 1 gal. of water until 
it is reduced to about 3 qts.; then take from 
the fire and allow to stand for a time. When 
cool strain through a cloth into a crock. 
Cover over with a lid and spread out the 
shredded cocoanut to dry. The following day 
see that your kettle is perfectly clean and 
pour this cocoanut milk in, and place on fire, 
allowing it to come to a boil. Take from 
fire, add 3 lbs. of glucose and 7 lbs. of sugar, 
stirring until dissolved. Wash down the 
sides, and after putting back on stove, insert 
thermometer and cover with lid, and let boil 
to 240°. Then take from fire and leave the 

102 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 103 

kettle set fast in a bucket or icecream packer. 
Do not remove thermometer. While you 
are waiting for thermometer to fall to 
140° break six eggs and whisk the whites 
to a froth and take the 2 lbs. of cocoanut 
you laid by the day before to dry, and 
chop fine. Watch the thermometer till the 
mercury drops to 140°; then raise it toward 
the center and drain. Take a clean paddle 
and work from the side to center all around 
until it turns white and seems about to 
cream. Theu put in the whites of eggs beaten 
to a froth and continue paddling. If you 
see that it begins to thicken quickly, add the 
cocoanut and 2 ozs. vanilla. Put this in too 
soon rather than too late, otherwise the cocoa- 
nut will not be worked through. 

Have marble slab prepared with some 
brown paper or any paper that has no gloss, 
or you can oil the slab lightly. Remove 
from kettle and put on this paper on the 
slab. Take two of your small iron bars y A of 
an inch high and place on the brown paper 



104 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

just as far apart as you think } t ou can run your 
rolling pin over. After spreading the cream 
between the bars and down to their level with 
rolling pin, cut the one end of the cream in 
between bars square, and with this waste 
you gathered try and square by rolling the 
other end. Then take caramel cutter and cut 
to size, or use a knife with a square stick as 
you would drawing parallel lines ^ inch 
apart, cutting the other way so as to make 
Y A inch square. Throw these squares, 
which are called caramels, into fine granu- 
lated sugar ; this produces crystals. 

These cost you less than 8c. a lb. if you 
were to make a 20-lb. batch, which is as easy 
to make as 5 lbs. and will retail at 30c. lb.; 
wholesale, at 18c. You can make four dollars 
in less than two hours' time. 

CREAM DATES. 

If you want to make these by hand you 
work the kiss cream through your fingers at 
first, as you did for centers for bonbons. If 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 105 

too soft and sticky, add some cornstarch and 
work in. When making in starch molds run 
the cream through a funnel, using the date 
mold for impressions, which then are neater 
and more uniform. Before beginning to make 
cream dates take a pound or more of sound 
dates, split them, and remove the stone. 
Do this until they are all pitted. Now take 
the cream you worked through your fingers, 
after dusting your hands with a little starch, 
and roll out round to a half-inch thickness ; 
with a knife cut small half-inch pieces or 
after a time pinch that quantity from the 
mass, and taking a pitted date in the left 
hand, between thumb and first finger, spread 
this in the date and then press together until 
it appears neat. In starch work it is much 
simpler, because you just take the open pitted 
date, put the center in, and press the sides of 
date up; then throw into Crystal A sugar. 
Afterward sift and pack in boxes or in trays. 
Color some cream red, and flavor with straw- 
berry or chocolate. 



106 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 
COCOANUT KISSES. 

Take 5 lbs. of kiss cream, put in a bucket 
or steamer, aud steam in a disbpan on the 
stove. When soft enough to work, add 1 lb. 
of shredded cocoauut and stir around until the 
cocoanut is well worked in the cream. If 1 
lb. is not sufficient add more, as you really 
want them wavy with cocoanut. Now take 
the bucket out of the water in the dishpan, 
and place on a chair near a table which you 
have covered with wax-paper. Take a large 
fork aud lift out a forkful at a time and drop 
on the paper. In dippiug a kiss the cocoanut 
ought to be like "cold slaw" ou a fork. 
After dipping a few pounds of white put the 
bucket back in the hot water in the pan on 
the stove ; add a few drops of red coloring, 
and work well for deep red kisses. Add 
chocolate to have red, white, aud brown 
kisses. 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 107 
C0C0ANUT PENNY BAES OE STEIPS 

Are made like caramels. Cut half caramels 
and the others in strips. Make the second 
batch red, and flavor with strawberry. 

CEEAM LOAVES \ PLAIN OE WITH NUTS. 

Plain cream loaves are made of clay or 
kiss cream, in either lib., 2-lb., or 3-lb. sizes. 

Chocolate-cover, as directed in Part III. 

When you use nuts in a cream loaf use clay 
cream, and, if that should be too soft, dust in 
a little cornstarch. Nuts are worked in by 
hand. 

Chocolate-coat as directed in Part III. 

You can make the penny sizes 1 oz. to the 
loaf ; making them long and thin. Chocolate- 
coat. 

COCOA BONBONS 

Are made of kiss cream by working cocoa- 
nut into the cream. Roll pieces the size of 
a marble and then dip as for bonbons. There 
is a machine that makes these centers for 



108 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

bonbons. Almond paste is also worked into 
the center of bonbons. 

PEANUT BALLS. 

Take 3 lbs. of glucose and 2 lbs. of sugar, 
boil to 248°. After it cools add 5 lbs. of kiss 
cream, stirring until it is dissolved. Now 
add 10 lbs. of roasted Spanish peanuts with 
their red skins on. Take a wooden spoon, 
and dip out and place on wax-paper. 

When you have thoroughly mastered the 
preceding instructions your own ingenuity 
will enable you to make new confections as 
they come under your observation. 

Now I will devote a little space to other 
flavored clipping creams. 

Coffee. — Grind a pound of Rio coffee in 
about 6 qts. of water ; let it boil down to 3 
qts.; strain this water, and use in place of 
plain. Add 10 to 15 lbs. of sugar, boil to 
235°, take from Are and stir in center 1 oz. of 
gelatine steamed in 3 oz. of water in a rice 
boiler. When the thermometer shows 125° 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 109 

begin to paddle from side to center all around ; 
add the well-beaten whites of six eggs ; when 
it thickens and before it stiffens add y 2 cup 
honey, then 4 ozs. cornstarch. 

For maple dipping cream use 1 gal. of 
maple syrup, 3 qts. of water, 15 lbs. of sugar, 
and finish like the above recipe. 

For molasses dipping cream use 1 gal. of 
dark syrup and proceed as in first recipe. 

Alakuma — Is made like any of the three 
preceding recipes, using only the sugar and 
water. Add 2 lbs. of blanched almonds, after 
beating in the eg-os • finish as above directed. 

Take four pieces of 1-inch x 1^-inch strips 
of wood; two pieces cut 6 inches long, the 
others 3 ft. Take wafer sheets and lay 
inside on the slab upon which the frame 
rests. Take a scissors and cut inch pieces 
along the sides ; now spread this cream 
inside of this frame and level with a rolling 
pin. When even with the bars place wafer 
sheets on top of this. After a few hours cut 
in 2-oz. squares. 



CHAPTER IX. 

SUNDRIES. 

Liqueurs. — You have seen goods that have 
a juice or watery substance inside and per- 
haps wondered " how it is done." These 
goods cannot be made by hand ; they are 
made in starch molds and are flavored and 
colored to suit the fancy. Brandy is lihe 
prevailing flavor. 

Take a kettle that has a lip to it and boil 
with 2 qts. of water 5 lbs. of sugar to 230^. 
Take from fire and stir in your flavor and 
coloring. Then pour the liqueur into your 
funnel and fill the starch molds of wine 
bottles, acorns, brandy drops, etc. After a 
few hours they are set ; the sugar crystalliz- 
ing on the outside, leaving a hollow center 
with a liquid inside. 

Gelatine Goods. — It is cheaper at times to 
no 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. Ill 

buy than to make thein, inasmuch as they 
are best made in a steam kettle, as otherwise 
they require constant stirring and are much 
in danger of burning. Sago is extensively 
used. My objection to giving gelatine 
recipes is on account of their rancid taste, 
which is counteracted by means of injurious 
acids. They certainly look pretty between 
layers of cream. In case you wish to make 
any, use 6 lbs. of sugar and 3 lbs. of glucose. 
Dissolve 1 lb. of white gelatine for about 12 
hours in enough water to cover it. 

Boil sugar and glucose to 245°. Remove 
from fire and stir in your dissolved gelatine, 
add 2 oz. of tartaric acid finely powdered ; 
then flavor. Have two or four breadpans, 
ready oiled on bottom and sides. Some use 
wax-paper well oiled in a pan. Pour in two 
of these pans to the depth of half an inch ; 
color the remaining mass in the kettle red, 
and flavor. Again pour out in the remaining 
pans. Leave these pans set for twenty-four 
hours ; then overturn one at a time, when 



112 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

ready to use. The oiled wax-paper will 
readily leave. Take a few pounds of pulver- 
ized sugar, running a rolling pin over it in 
case it is lumpy, and place in a starch board 
or pan. Take a pair of scissors and cut into 
small squares, then throw them among the 
pulverized sugar. They are ready for use. 

Or again, pour the gelatine syrup, after 
preparing the pan with paper as before 
mentioned, to a depth of a quarter of an inch 
in several pans. Then steam some kiss cream 
or clay cream and pour on top of this the 
following day, when the paste is well set. 
Turn your pan over and spread some cream 
on the other side. Then cut with a knife 
into squares or diamond shapes. 



CHAPTER X. 

BLANCHING ALMONDS — SALTING 
ALMONDS. 

Take any quantity of almonds and put 
into a bucket; have at hand scalding water 
sufficient to cover, and stir around for a 
minute or two with a paddle ; then drain 
through a colander. Press each one between 
the thumb and index finger, causing the 
almond to leave its coating; lay them aside 
to dry. When dry, take a frying pan and 
put in one-half lb. of butter with a half 
spoon of dissolved gum arabic. When the 
butter is well heated put into the pan 1 lb. 
of blanched almonds ; keep stirring about 
with a little paddle or wooden spoon, as 
though scrambling eggs in a pan, and when 
nicely browned throw into your colander 
again (which must be perfectly dry and 
113 



114 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

clean as well as a dish); you set the col- 
ander on to catch any butter that may not 
have been absorbed, and sprinkle profusely 
with salt, stirring the almonds around so that 
each one will be salted. 

They retail at eighty cents per lb. 

ROASTING ALMONDS. 

Take a roasting pan and put in raw 
almonds to the depth of an inch. Place in 
the oven of your stove in a strong fire. You 
must occasionally stir them so that the upper 
ones go to the botton and the bottom ones 
come to the top. Almonds must be roasted 
so that they are crisp when broken, but 
they must not be brown, or they will be 
bitter, and, if not roasted sufficiently, they 
will be doughy. 

If you add 2 oz. of cocoa butter with 4 oz. 
of best oleomargarine, on which you have 
dropped some oil of orange peel, to 5 lbs. of 
roasted almonds, while warm, they will have 
a fine flavor when chocolate-coated. 



CHAPTER XL 

CONCLUSION OF PART II. 

In this Part we have taught the nicety of 
confections. Care and accuracy in following 
the directions will soon teach you the way 
to make any particular piece you may see 
displayed. 

Making or inventing is difficult if you have 
no one to guide you, but with the assistance 
you have in this volume the rest follows 
easily. For instance, you see cream mice : 
get the molds, impress in the starch, and cast. 
Chocolate-coat as in Part III. 

Again, chocolate eggs ; they also require a 
mold, or else shape by hand and chocolate- 
coat as in Part III. 

Or again, chocolate cream bars. First 
pour your cream on wax-paper to a required 
thickness ; when cold cover with stiff choco- 

115 



116 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

late to required thickness ; when this choco- 
late is cold reverse and cover the under side 
with stiff chocolate ; when well set take a 
sharp knife and cut in required lengths. 

Cream is in your hands as clay is in the 
hands of a sculptor, and your ingenuity will 
soon find the mode of using it. 

Should you employ girls to dip cream for 
you, observe that they do not overheat it by 
leaving on the fire too Ions;. Otherwise it 
will be as hard as stone. 



PART III 
CHAPTER I. 

CHOCOLATE. 

In reading this Part devote your attention 
strictly to every particular. Chocolate-coat- 
ing is a science and requires great care, as it 
shows the least imperfection, yet, once under- 
stood, children ten years of age can perform 
the work. This is in fact one of the chief 
reasons why dipping machines are used — the 
lack of understanding the nature of choco- 
late. Using chocolate when too warm 
causes graining; too low a temperature has 
the same effect. 

Graining means turning white or spotting 
white. A great many persons can tell when 
a thing is wrong, but are unable to remedy it. 

To explain chocolate-coating requires some 

117 



118 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

practical person who has overcome obstacles 
by actual experience ; for few can master the 
art of pure chocolate-coating without a 
chocolate cooler and other expensive appli- 
ances. 

The degree of heat necessary to dissolve 
chocolate is blood heat, but this largely de- 
pends on its purity. The cheaper the choco- 
late the more sugar it contains and the less 
butter. Chocolate can be bought from 
wholesale grocers' and confectioners' supply 
houses. It comes in 10-lb. cakes. It is 
bitter and sweet. 

Liqueur and Coating. — The former is used 
by bakers, the latter by confectioners. Im- 
pure or highly adulterated chocolate can be 
detected, as in breaking it crumbles, the 
grain is coarser from the surface to the cen- 
ter, and lastly, by the fact that it is not cool 
to the palate. 

In case you wish to use only a small 
quantity, buy from a nearby baker. If 
bitter, take y 2 lb, of finely pulverized sugar 



PR A OTIC A L CONFECTIO XER Y RECIPES. 1 1 9 

and work into the chocolate. It will most 
likely thicken. In this case add some prime 
lard. Those to whom, on account of their 
religions belief, lard is forbidden can use 
goose-fat. 



CHAPTER II. 

PREPARING CHOCOLATE AND HOW TO DIP. 

In case you wish light-colored chocolates 
use light chocolate ; for dark-colored choco- 
lates use the dark kind. Medium or Ceylon- 
colored chocolates, more light than dark, 
mix the two kinds. Never fail to use in 
mixing chocolate half of the best quality to 
half of the cheapest, for there are grades in 
both light and dark chocolate. 

When dissolving chocolate for coating 
purposes, say Ceylon color, put on the fire a 
dish pan with water, place two pieces of 
wood over the rim across the pan ; as soon 
as the water begins to steam, place an ordi- 
nary bread or roasting pan with 5 lbs. of 
light chocolate, twenty-two cents per lb., and 
one lb. of dark, twenty-eight cents, with 4 

lbs. more of light, fifteen cents. The vapor 
120 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 121 

arising from the water striking the bottom 
of the pan causes the chocolate therein to 
melt. Never permit the bottom of the pan 
containing chocolate to touch the water. In 
an hour the chocolate will be dissolved; 
then remove both the vessel containing the 
water and the pan with chocolate from the 
fire. With a large spoon begin to stir 
the chocolate in the pan thoroughly, to ob- 
tain a uniform mixture as well as color. 

After mixing the chocolate dip out some 
in a bowl and set by to cool. 

How to dip. — Have a few ^-inch boards 
about 12 inches square at hand; on each 
place a sheet of ordinary glazed white paper. 
Put on a plate some of the cream centers 
you have made (as explained in Part IT.) or 
some roasted almonds or walnut halves. 
Now take all these to a table which you 
place so as to catch a draught or breeze, for 
without air your chocolate will not set. In 
winter the temperature of your dipping room 
should not be above 60°, and in the summer 



122 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

avail yourself of a breezy day, otherwise you 
will have to use a chocolate cooler, in which 
the temperature must be kept down to 54°. 

Now take the bowl with the dissolved 
chocolate, and a dipping fork, and sit down 
to. this table. Place the dipping fork in the 
center of the bowl, and observe the amount 
of oil floating on top. Stir the fork, with its 
end on the bottom of the bowl, around and 
around until you reach the rim, and continue 
to work in a circle from rim to the center, 
lifting your fork out, and making a pass over 
the surface of the chocolate, and you will 
notice a streak across, showing like a vein on 
the back of your hand. If this streak van- 
ishes quickly, your chocolate is too warm to 
proceed with dipping. Just keep on stirring 
from rim to center, occasionally lifting your 
fork and making this stroke across with the 
chocolate that adheres to the end of fork 
until it is slow to vanish. Now take your 
fork and, with a motion that trembling 
people have, wave your chocolate to and fro 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 123 

swiftly on the surface, to mix the oil well 
with the chocolate, throwing a cream center 
or roasted almond in at the same time, and 
with a wave of the fork submerge the piece 
just thrown in. Then placing your fork 
under it, raise it to the side of the bowl, 
draining the chocolate off with a few rapid 
strokes over the rim and lower part of fork. 
Wave up and down, drawing over the rim 
again, and then place on the edge of paper 
nearest the bowl in such manner that the top 
is on the paper and the fork on top, and 
with a delicate touch of the fork draw a line 
across. If the chocolate is still too warm 
you will notice this mark, which looks like a 
vein on the back of one's hand, disappear, 
and likewise notice that the bottom of the 
center you just coated will spread, making a 
broad bottom. Should this be the case stop 
at once, as you will only fail. 

Getting the first bowl of chocolate right is 
difficult. Never allow the chocolate which 
you drain off the fork to the side of the 



124 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

bowl to remain there, but after placing the 
piece you coated on the paper, stir this and 
drain in again when you wave your choco- 
late, before throwing the next piece in the 
bowl. 

After dipping a short time your chocolate 
will begin to stiffen ; in that case add warm 
chocolate from your pan, stirring the warm 
and cold together in the bowl. It often hap- 
pens that, even after adding warm chocolate 
in your dipping bowl, it is still too stiff. 
When this occurs, take some out of the bowl 
into the pan and add more warm from the 
pan, stiring this in the bowl until fit for dip- 
ping. 

It is needless to tell of all the things that 
are dipped in chocolate. Just look at a 
candy window display : you will find alm- 
onds, walnuts, filberts, peppermints, rasp- 
berry hearts, nut-top cream, etc. 

It is, however, of the utmost importance to 
your success in learning to chocolate-coat to 
be slow and cautious. AVhile it appears 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 125 

simple, it is really difficult — difficult in so far 
that overheated chocolate spoils the sale of 
goods. 

They at first present a freckled appear- 
ance, afterward becoming gray; which you 
have no doubt seen on some chocolate that 
had been exposed to the rays of the sun. 
After your chocolate is melted, and you have 
placed some in your dipping bowl, set it 
aside to cool (in the bowl). When you wish 
to know whether it is ready for use, just 
steep one of your fingers far into the bowl. 
If it does not feel warm to the finger take 
your dipping fork, waving the surface of the 
chocolate in a trembling way, to mix the oil 
with the chocolate (other wise it looks glassy 
and dull), and make a veined mark on the 
surface of the chocolate. If this mark is 
slow in seeking the level of the other choco- 
late in the bowl, you can begin to coat. Never 
forget to wave the chocolate with your fork 
before throwing in the next piece, so that 
the oil or cocoa butter, which constantly 



126 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

comes to the surface on the chocolate in your 
bowl, be well mixed. This causes the goods 
to have an even gloss without beiDg streaked. 

I will conclude this chapter with the fol- 
lowing cautions : / 

Remember to place the pan with the choco- 
late over the pan of water, so that the bottom 
of the chocolate pan does not touch the water. 

Remember that a current of air is neces- 
sary to set chocolates. 

Remember, if your chocolate does not dry 
on the piece you dipped within a minute 
after, that the chocolate is too warm or you 
need more air. 

Remember that chocolates dry when the 
temperature is below 60°. 

Remember never to get any water in the 
chocolate pan. 

Remember to wave the surface of your 
chocolate each time before dipping. 

Remember that you can put lard or cocoa 
butter in the chocolate if you wish to make 
a thin coating. 



CHAPTER III. 

HAND DIPPING ; MORE PROPERLY FINGER 
DIPPING. 

In the preceding chapter we discussed 
hand-fork dipping, which is slower work 
than the kind now to be explained. 

Melt your chocolate just as directed in the 
foregoing chapter. 

Now, take a smooth-bottom pie plate and 
with a large spoon dip 3 or 4 spoonfuls into 
the pie-plate ; with the tips of right-hand 
fingers smooth the chocolate around the 
bottom, working it out so that the center of 
plate is shallow, and its edge high. Take 
3 or 4 more spoonfuls of chocolate, working 
or smoothing the same way. When this has 
been worked until cold you will have formed 
a kind of reservoir into which you now put 
more chocolate, and working the fingers in 

127 



128 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

this chocolate until the oil is well mixed, and 
the chocolate cool to the fingers, put in a 
center or two, at the same time twirling them 
about until well covered. Holding them at 
the tips of fingers and thumb, drop on the 
paper and allow the finger which is the 
longest to draw a light upward stroke with 
the chocolate that would otherwise drop off. 
This is the finishing of a chocolate. When 
the chocolate in the plate gets too cold add 
warm, making sure to smooth it well before 
beginning to coat again. As in the previous 
chapter, if the chocolates will not set after 
placing on paper, or should they turn gray, 
you have forgotten to review the cautions at 
the end of the chapter. 



CHAPTER IV. 

ADULTERATED CHOCOLATE COATINGS. 

In Part II. we mentioned certain goods 
that were easily dipped and likewise cheap : 
such goods as chocolate eggs, chocolate- 
clustered peanuts, chocolate-cream mice, 
chocolate-cream penny bars, cream loaves. 

Directions. — Weigh out accurately 1 
lb. of chocolate and 1 lb. of paraf- 
line; place both in a pan over steaming 
water, and allow them to dissolve. When 
thoroughly dissolved, take a wooden spoon 
and mix. Remove the pan from fire to 
where you intend to work, and dip each 
piece separately. In a short time they are 
set ; you need not be so particular about the 
temperature with these goods. 

In concluding this Part III. I repeat 
that reflection and care are the best teachers 
and, with practice, perfection is assured. 

129 



PART IV. 



CHAPTER I. 

ICE CREAM. 

Ask the ladies, and even the little tot of 
sixteen months that accompanies its mother 
to an ice cream saloon on a warm day in 
early spring, what it wants. The musical 
notes of its voice says " ice keam ! " 

Not so, however, in every instance, for 
a child more than anyone else is sensitive in 
matters of the palate. I have seen infants 
less than a year old eat a quantity equal to 
four ounces with relish and cry for more. 
You, no doubt, surmise the reason : the 
cream was pure, wholesome, rich, and 
flavored to a degree consistent with good 
digestion. 

I used these recipes for more than seven 

131 



132 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

years in my former retail business at 1908 
Carson Street, S. S. Pittsburg, Pa., which I 
occupied and owned until recently. I have 
sold at retail as many as four thousand 
callous in a season. I have had a reputation 
for a pure food article second to none. In 
the most complicated cases of typhoid and 
other diseases physicians and hospital 
officers, where the cases demanded pure 
ice cream, never failed to get it from me, 
knowing full well that cleanliness and 
purity, together with only such ingredients 
as would be beneficial to the most sensitive 
stomach, were employed. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE USE OF DELETERIOUS SUBSTANCES AND 
THEIR EFFECTS. 

Gelatine. — Gelatine is made of various 
parts of animals' hides and hoofs, chemically 
treated and, with the aid of machinery, 
chopped fine. There is also a kind known 
as fish gelatine. 

The author does not pretend to know 
anything regarding the composition of gela- 
tine except what he has read. Agents when 
selling it have styled it Flake, and when 
asked to tell of what it is made gave the 
following reply : " It is imported ; composed 
of equal parts of Swiss cow's milk, and other 
ingredients." 

To the reader I would simply say, I, for 
one, would rather do without Swiss cow's 
milk condensed, etc. 

133 



134 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

You may have used gelatine frequently 
and not allowed it to stand for a time, or 
used it dissolved in milk, and thereby de- 
stroyed the flavor. To know how palatable 
it is, take an ounce with enough water to 
cover and allow to stand over night. Apply 
your nostrils to it in the morning, and I am 
certain that its composition will not require 
chemical analysis. It is only used in ice 
creams when milk is used; 1 gallon of good 
heavy cream is obtained from 6 gallons of 
milk in one vessel. This gives you an idea 
how much cream or butter fat is had from 
1 gallon of milk. Cream is of a greater 
density than milk, consequently when ice- 
cream makers use 3*4 gallons of cream 
and \y 2 gallon of milk they lighten the 
density of what cream they use, besides 
adding lightness or thinness. This thinness 
is akin to water, and when frozen forms ice 
particles in the cream. To obviate the con- 
sequent coarseness they use gelatine or glue. 

You can detect this in eating by allowing 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 135 

the cream to gather on the roof of your 
mouth before swallowing. You will notice 
a gumminess. At other times, when not 
thoroughly dissolved, it is full of yellow 
gummy particles. 

My recipes do not require the use of 
leather to give smoothness. 

Glycerine. — Glycerine is at times also 
used, but in small quantities, as even then 
it causes a greasy feeling in the throat. It 
only serves to make an artificial richness 
which, as I said, causes a burning feeling. 



CHAPTER III. 

HOW TO KNOW THE AGE OF ICE CREAM. 

Ice cream, when newly made, is perfectly 
white, even when eggs are used. As it be- 
comes older, say twenty-four hours, it be- 
comes egg color or light yellow. After 
thirty-six hours it deepens to a buff color. 
In forty-eight hours it is deeper and coarse. 
Ice cream, when made of good milk and 
eaten within a few hours after freezing, is 
not any coarser and certainly more palatable. 
When you eat ice cream that is forty-eight 
hours old or more eat sparingly, as it has 
a peculiar action on the system, which I am 
unable to explain. 



136 



CHAPTER IV. 

NECESSARY PREPARATION BEFORE MAKING. 

Prepare for the making of ice cream as 
follows ; whether by steam or hand power is 
immaterial : 

Take your freezing can, of copper or heavy 
tin, put in the paddle; pour scalding water 
in, and cover with the lid until thoroughly 
steamed. Remove the lid, and with a clean 
towel dry its inside and place near your 
freezing tub. Take out the paddle, turning 
upper end down, and dry in the same manner 
and place near lid. Pour the water out of 
the freezing can and dry with care. If it 
chances to be copper wipe the outside as 
well, but not before you have cleaned the 
inside, for fear of verdigris. Never begin 

' CD CD 

the manufacture of ice cream without scald- 
ing your can, paddle, and lid, no matter how 

137 



138 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

clean you may think they are. It is through 
lack of cleanliness that people are poisoned. 
There may be no perceptible amount of 
verdigris, but very little is more than 
enough. 

Place your freezing can in position in the 
freezing tub and cover with your strainer, 
which should be a bright tin wash basin, 
with the bottom cut out and a hair sieve 
soldered in. This will tit nicely on a 10- 
gallon can. Have a box at hand and crack 
about 50 lbs. of ice. At the present time 
there is no need of buying expensive ice 
crushers even if your output should be 40 
gallons daily or more. This past season I 
have seen contrivances used by icemen that 
not only crushed the ice as fine as a steam 
ice crusher but just as fast — a 300-lb. cake 
disappearing in a minute. 

Take a dishpan, cleaned and dried. Now 
break into this pan 2/^ dozen of eggs, which 
averages 6 eggs to the gallon of fresh cream. 
Take an egg-beater and whip the eggs until 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 139 

they become frothy, then take 1 l A lbs. of 
granulated sugar, which is W2 lb. to the 
gallon of fresh cream, and mix in with the 
eggs. To the eggs and sugar add 4 table- 
spoonfuls of vanilla. 

Take about 1 pt. of cream and let it come 
to a boil on the fire, stirring constantly. As 
soon as it begins to puff remove from fire 
and pour in the contents of a can of con- 
densed milk. Stir the cream so that the 
condensed milk dissolves. Now add 4 large 
tablespoonfuls of gum arable which you 
have prepared the day before, using 2 lbs. 
of gum arabic to 4 gallon of water, stirring 
all the while until it is well dissolved. After 
it is cool pour into a Mason jar from which 
you have now added to the hot cream and 
condensed milk 4 tablespoonfuls, stirring 
well and pouring into the sugar, eggs, and 
vanilla in the dishpan, mixing all with a 
large spoon. Proceed to your freezer, set 
down your dishpan, and add about \ gallon 
or more of cream, stirring all again, to dis- 



140 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

solve the paste so that it will pass through 
the strainer. While pouring the paste from 
the dishpau into the strainer rest one edge of 
the bottom of pan on the edge of the freezer, 
guiding or tilting the dishpan with your left 
hand while you stir with a lar^e wooden 
spoon the paste that is flowing into the 
strainer, to keep from clogging. In this 
manner proceed until the 5 gals, of sweet 
cream have passed through your strainer 
into the freezer. Remove strainer, place 
paddle in position in the can, cover with lid, 
and take action to freeze. To freeze 10 gals. 
of ice cream requires about 50 lbs. of 
ice sprinkled with 10 lbs. of salt. Mix 
thoroughly, then throw into the freezing 
packer all around the can. If you have 
steam power, turn on the steam so that the 
can will make about 100 revolutions a 
minute. Keep this speed up for about five 
minutes, then gradually crowd on more 
until finished, which takes about twenty-five 
minutes, using the highest speed the last five 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 141 

minutes. The less salt you use while freez- 
ing, and the more evenly you speed, the more 
ice cream you will produce. If, while freez- 
ing, the ice should go down below the rim of 
the lid, fill up again. Most 10-gal. freezing 
cans have several small glasses in the lid. 
If you watch these you can see the cream 
being whipped upon the paddle at the end of 
fifteen minutes. Most speed is required 
towards the finish ; you can crowd on all you 
want. After the cream rises up in the can 
to your satisfaction open the bung at the 
bottom of the packer and allow the water to 
flow out ; then replace the bung. Have a 
cloth at hand and wipe the lid thoroughly 
clean before attempting to raise it, otherwise 
you may get salt and ice in the cream. After 
removing the lid take a spoon in your right 
hand and with your left draw the paddle 
out, and wipe off any cream that may cling 
to it. Stand this paddle in some convenient 
place. If your cream can is of copper, tin- 
lined, do not let it remain in this can, but 



142 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

have at hand a packer and can filled and 
packed with ice. In putting ice around a 
can in packing (but not in freezing) yon ram 
the ice down between the tub and can, and 
see that the lid of can is clean before open- 
ing. With a large dipper transfer from 
freezing can to packer. Should you intend 
making more cream, place the strainer on the 
freezing can and proceed as before. In cases 
where you intend making 40 gals, of different 
kinds proceed in this order: Make 10 gals, of 
vanilla, 10 gals, of pineapple or bisque, 10 
gals, of chocolate, 10 gals, of strawberry. 
Never make strawberry before chocolate, if 
you use red coloring. 

Note. — Unless the cream you use (whether 
skimmed or separated) is fresh it will not 
double. Old cream may make a little richer 
cream, but it lacks life and will never double. 



CHAPTER V. 

HOW TO HAVE A VARIETY FROM ONE FREEZ- 
ING, AND BRICK ICE CREAM. 

In the foregoing chapter we discussed the 
process of making ice cream and the relative 
quantity of the various ingredients necessary. 

Now we will explain how it is that in 
winter you can obtain a great variety of ice 
cream while the caterer's bill of fare calls for 
but one kind, vanilla. Say you had on hand 
5 gals, of vanilla ice cream and a customer 
came in and wanted a gallon and a half (in 
^-gal. bricks) of chocolate, vanilla, and straw- 
berry ice cream. You would furnish him 
the cream by the following method : Go to a 
confectioner's supply house and buy several 
tins called bricks : 2 pts., 4 pts., 3 pts., etc. 
Now there were wanted three j£-gal. bricks. 
Take three of these 4-pt. tins and place on a 

143 



144 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

table in front of you near your ice-cream can ; 
also three pieces of white wax-paper and 
three sheets of brown paper or three 5-lb. paper 
sacks. If you have grated chocolate on hand 
put 5 oz. in a cup or glass and place on table 
with the cans ; if not, grate some chocolate ; 
take another glass and fill with about 5 oz. of 
strawberry fruit juice such as they use in 
syrups at soda fountains with 4 or 5 drops of 
brilliant rose coloring. Place this also on 
the table with a dipper containing hot water 
and a clean towel and clean basin. 

See that the cans are perfectly clean. 
Now take a large spoon and fill each of these 
cans yi full of vanilla ice cream, then dip 
your large spoon into the dipper of hot water, 
dry and smooth the cream to a level in each 
can. Pick up your clean basin and dip out 
into it about as much vauilla ice cream as you 
have put in the cans. Now scatter the 
grated chocolate over this cream in the basin 
and with your large spoon work it thoroughly 
into the cream. Divide equally in on top of 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. Ho 

the three cans in which you have the vanilla, 
smooth the top of this chocolate layer, dry 
your spoon, and dip into the can again con- 
taining the vanilla ice cream, putting in the 
basin sufficient to fill the three bricks. To 
this last cream add the strawberry juice cou- 
tainino* the red colorius:, mixing; well with 
your large spoon so as to get the color evenly 
distributed. Fill this in on top of the choco- 
late. Place first the wax-paper on the cream, 
then the brown paper on top of the white ; 
lastly, place the tin lid so that it fits tight. 
Cover with ice and plenty of salt. 

Home use. — Take a half-s*al. granite bucket 
and proceed in the same manner as described 
above — dipping your cream out of your little 
freezer and mixing: the colors and flavors. 
Place a piece of paper over the opening of 
the bucket before putting the tin lid on. 
Place the granite bucket in a ordinary water 
pail with a small hole in the side, say 3 
inches from the bottom, to allow the salt 
water to drain off easily and cover over with 



146 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

plenty of salt and ice until you want to use 
it. If your company should be late, and the 
cream is not going to be used for some time, 
add more salt and ice and cover over again 
with a piece of carpet or a box, to prevent 
the cold air from evaporating as well as to 
save the ice. After your guests have arrived 
and the course for cream and cake is next 
have the servant follow this method of tak- 
ing it out : Every kitchen has a sink. Place 
your water pail containing the half-gal. 
bucket covered with salt and ice in this sink 
and in a dishpau nearby have some hot 
water. Take the granite bucket out of the 
pail, and with a dishcloth steeped in the hot 
water wash the frost from the sides and bot- 
tom of the bucket, giving the sides and bot- 
tom a good warm bath. Now take your tea 
towel and dry thoroughly the outside and 
bottom of the bucket and place on a table 
where you have a large platter, a case knife, a 
pitcher with hot water, and your trays with 
the saucers. These requisites must all be 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 14*7 

ready in advance. Now take the granite 
bucket in your hand and remove the lid, 
then the wax-paper, and turn over on the 
platter, giving it a little jostle to make the 
cream slide out. If it is obstinate and does 
not come out it is a sign that your warm bath 
on the outside of the can was not sufficient 
to remove the frost. In that case waste no 
time, but put on the lid and bathe again, be- 
ing as quick as possible, so that the cream 
will not begin to melt. Dry again the out- 
side of the bucket or mold and place on plat- 
ter until it slips out. Now take your case 
knife and steep in the pitcher of hot water 
up to the handle, draw the knife through the 
tea towel, and cut the three-colored cakes of 
ice cream in so many parts as you require, 
with a fish or butter knife. Place on the 
saucers on your tray and serve. 



CHAPTER VI. 

HOW TO MAKE TWO OR THREE KINDS OF CREAM 
AT ONE FREEZING. 

This recipe is intended for persons in busi- 
ness who want to have a variety of fresh 
cream, but find themselves limited to 10 gals. 
per day. Say you have made 5 or 10 gals, of 
vanilla ice cream. Take out 4 gals, of vaDilla 
without removing the paddle, only pushing it 
aside, and put in a packer packed with ice. 
Now take out 3 more gals, and place in an- 
other can packed with ice. Flavor this with 
pineapple or grated chocolate, using a paddle 
with a long; arm to mix in the flavor. From 
the balance that is left in your freezer make 
strawberry by putting the strawberries in the 
freezer with a little color and churning again 
for a few minutes, as though you were about 
to make ice cream. 

148 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. H9 

Here I want to caution the inexperienced 
not to think that cream, after it is frozen and 
packed, requires no more care or attention. 
After removing from the freezing can to 
packers you must occasionally open the bung 
at the bottom of the tub and let the 
water out and repack with salted ice. 

Should your ice cream ever become soft 
and you have plenty of ice in the packer add 
more salt and cover with a piece of wet car- 
pet or a heavy bag and in a short time it 
will harden. 

Cream that is allowed to soften loses its 
quantity and lessens your profit. 



CHAPTER VII. 

VARIOUS RECIPES. 
CRUSHED STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. 

Take as before 2y 2 dozen eggs, 7>^ lbs. of 
sugar, to 5 gals, of cream, 1 can of condensed 
milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of gum arabic, and 
about 5 or 6 drops of coloring (brilliant rose). 
If you use any other coloring, make certain 
that it is non-poisonous. 

Follow the same method of procedure as 
in the foregoing recipe. When strawberries 
are cheap use 4 qts. ; when from 30 to 40 
cents per qt. use 3 qts. ; when at 50 cents or 
more, use but 1 qt. for your cream. 

Pick the green stems off and remove any 
decayed ones you may find ; after all are 
picked wash them in fresh water and drain 
through a colander. When drained set the 
colander in a larger pan, and with a wooden 

150 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 151 

potato masher mash through the colander, 
adding % lb. of sugar to each qt. of berries. 
When your paddle has been placed in proper 
position put in the crushed strawberries, 
cover with lid, pack with ice, and freeze ac- 
cording to preceding directions. 



PINEAPPLE. 

Never use fresh pineapples; first because 
you cannot boil them and preserve the 
flavor; secondly because, buying in small 
quantities, they are too expensive. Canned 
pineapples (Moore & Brady brand of Balti- 
more) are the best and can be had 2 for 
25 cts.; 3 cans will be sufficient for 10 
gals. I highly recommend this brand and 
assure satisfaction. After opening the cans 
save about y 2 qt. of the water. When the 
pineapples are ready for use, you take a 
small clean board and cut the slices first one 
way one-eighth of an inch, strip them an 
eighth of an inch crosswise, — this makes 



152 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

small squares, — and proceed as in the preced- 
ing recipes. 

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. 

Use the same ingredients as for the first 
recipe. Take a pt. of cream in a rice boiler 
and add 1 lb. of grated chocolate to the 
cream, and allow it to boil so that the choco- 
late dissolves. Add the other ingredients, 
pass through the strainer, and freeze as be- 
fore. 

PEACH ICE CREAM. 

If you are about to make ice cream to sell 
from this recipe, then use one-half apricots 
and one-half peaches ; these combined pro- 
duce the best flavor. I always believe in 
leading in early fruit ice creams; using 
Florida strawberries in January at 75 cts. 
a qt. They not only serve as an advertise- 
ment when placed for a few days in the 
show window before using, but even the 
average poor man takes the view that you 
are a leader, and is bound to follow you 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 153 

later in the season and buy your attractive 
goods. 

You can peel the peaches and apricots, 
but it is not necessary unless they are green, 
when their use is unadvisable. After re- 
moving the stones cut in slices and press 
through a colander, but the skins will not 
pass through. 

BANANA ICE CREAM. 

Use the extract of banana peel ; never 
freeze any sliced bananas ; serve separately 
to order, as they discolor in freezing. 

LEMON ICE CREAM. 

Save your lemon peels ; steam in a pan 
over a kettle. Press out the oil with a 
lemon squeezer; use as extract with the 
other ingredients and freeze. 

COFFEE ICE CREAM. 

Grind 1 lb. of good Rio to a dust; put dry 
in the cream with the other ingredients, and 
freeze. 



154 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 
ORANGE ICE CREAM 

Is made like peach. Force the meat of 
oranges through a colander. If juicy or- 
anges are used, 10 are sufficient. 

BISQUE ICE CREAM. 

To 5 gals, of sweet cream take 2 lbs. of 
macaroons. Dry them in the sun or in an 
oven ; when dry place on a table, and with a 
rolling pin crush them to powder. After 
freezing about fifteen minutes, remove the 
lid and put in the powdered macaroons. 
Freeze until finished. 

NUT ICE CREAMS. 

Walnut, filbert, pistache are all made 
alike, by chopping about 2 lbs. fine to the 5 
gals, of sweet cream. As pistache nuts cost 
about $1.25 per lb., use only ]/ 2 lb. of them 
to \y 2 lb. of English walnuts. Pistache 
being of a green color, take a little green 
paste (spinach green) and dissolve in alcq-. 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 155 

hol ; throw on the English walnuts, and stir 
about so that they are colored, and then 
freeze as with other recipes. 

FEENCH NOUGAT 

Is analogus to niarshrnallow. 

Put a quart of honey in your candy kettle 
with 1 lb. of pulverized sugar. Have 3 lbs. 
of blanched almonds at hand and the whites 
of 12 eggs well whisked. Place with the 
honey and sugar on a slow fire ; stir until 
the sugar is thoroughly dissolved ; then 
slowly add the whites of the eggs, stirring 
until it will not stick to your fingers. Now 
add the blanched almonds and vanilla flavor. 
Spread to a depth of one-half an inch on 
wafer paper. You can also use peanuts for 
almonds and glucose for honey : one pound 
of glucose to a pint of honey. Afterward 
cut and wrap in waxed paper. Color some 
pink with strawberry flavor. Add chocolate 
for chocolate. 



156 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 
CRYSTALLIZING SYRUP. 

Use any quantity of Crystal A sugar and 
boil with sufficient water to 220°. Remove 
from fire, allowing the thermometer to re- 
main in the syrup until the mercury drops 
to 100°. Then pour the syrup over your 
finished cream bonbons of any variety, ex- 
cept chocolate-covered goods, which you 
have placed in pans, and allow to stand for 
twelve hours; then drain by tilting; after- 
ward allow these bonbons to dry, and you 
will note crystal sparkles covering the con- 
fection. The higher you boil the syrup, the 
heavier as well as coarser the crystal. Never 
add cream of tartar or glucose. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

THE CARE OF A SODA FOUNTAIN. 

The pipes through which your carbonated 
water passes before entering the draught 
should always be cleaned with hot water and 
washing soda at the beginning of the season. 
This insures a wholesome and clean drink as 
well as a pleasant taste. Even should your 
fountain and pipes be new, take this pre- 
caution. In mixing simple syrup with fruit 
juices, have at hand several 1 gallon bot- 
tles. Use 12 ozs. of fruit juice, which you 
place in the bottle first ; then add simple 
syrup to make up the quantity of 1 gallon. 
Cork the bottle and turn the neck down, 
holding the cork fast in the palm of your 
hand, and shake well, so that the syrup will 
be of a uniform color and flavor. Some add 

foam to the syrup and fruit juice ; how- 
ls? 



158 PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 

ever, this is optional, as when you have 
properly charged tanks, a good draught, and 
a good fountain dispenser, he will draw a 
sparkling as well as frothy drink. 

I have no paid advertisements in this book, 
and when I suggest a certain brand or make 
of goods, I do so simply from my experience. 
Experience is the best teacher and the most 
trustworthy. I highly recommend Hunger- 
ford Smith's fruit syrups, because they never 
sour and always give satisfaction. I have 
no doubt that after a trial you will agree 
with me. 

Vanilla. — In preparing vanilla syrup use 
nothing but the best, and then sparingly ; too 
much vanilla is hurtful. Use 1 oz. of extract 
and add simple syrup to the gallon bottle ; 
cork and reverse, shaking well. 

Chocolate, — Exercise great care in prepar- 
ing a quantity of syrup with this flavor. 
The condition of the weather has everything 
to do with the keeping thereof. Prepare 
only as much as will serve you from day to 



PRACTICAL CONFECTIONERY RECIPES. 159 

day, and keep in a cool place. Should you 
notice any of your prepared syrups ferment- 
ing do not serve to your customers or throw 
it away, but in making taffies use it along 
with the other ingredients, remembering that 
when you use chocolate, you must stir after 
putting on fire until finished. 

The usual quantity of syrup to a glass of 
soda is 2 ozs. but this depends largely on 
the size of your glass. Again, some like it 
sweeter than others. Keep plenty of Acid 
Phosphate on your counter, and use it if the 
syrup be too sweet. 

Boiling Simple Syrup. — Use 7 lbs. of 
sugar to the gallon of water ; add a pinch of 
cream of tartar and boil to 215°, or, if you 
have a syrup gauge, to 32°. This syrup, 
while not of the consistency of rock candy 
syrup, will answer all purposes and prove 
very economical. 



CHAPTER IX. 



A PASSING WORD. 



The author has endeavored to make the 
profits of all his readers such that the small 
sum asked will be a thousand times repaid, 
whether such reader be an economical house- 
wife or an enterprising merchant. In the 
present time of combinations and trusts you 
cannot tell what price is about to be asked 
or what course will be dictated to you, and 
it behooves every private individual as well 
as merchant to be his own " trust " or " com- 
bine " by obtaining such knowledge and re- 
sources as will render him independent. 

The contents of this little book, if care- 
fully studied, will insure both to traders and 
private individuals the largest possible profits 
with the greatest possible economy. 



160 



1S99 



^•^•^^ 



PRACTICAL 

CONFECTIONERY RECIPES 

FOR HOUSEHOLD AND MANUFACTURERS' USE 



COMPRISING PULL DIRECTIONS POR THE MAKING OP ALL 

KINDS OP CANDIES, CREAMS, AND 

ICE CREAMS 



BY 

PROFESSOR DU NIEL 



* 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE AUTHOR 

1899 



,-%,* 



